Need Wireless Mouse Help

[ferrarr]

OP stated hub (expander) was plugged into the other TB 4 port in Post # 11. But you are correct about no other devices being mentioned.

 

[krs]

OP stated hub (expander) was plugged into the other TB 4 port in Post # 11.

Yes....
But this is just the way the OP powered the hub, not any info if other devices besides monitor and mouse are connected to the hub - which is the point you brought up.

 

[KoobCAM]

Okay will try to address all the questions:

Logitech mouse model # is M705

Plugged into the hub:
Mouse USB Receiver
HDMI to Dell Monitor
USB Cord For Connecting Phone to Sync with MBP

The hub is plugged into the Thunderbolt port on the MBP

No issues charging the MBP it goes from 15% to 100% very quickly

"You want to plug your Apple power cord into the one marked PD INPUT, then plug the adapter into the MBP."- I don't understand what value this would have since I run the MBP off the battery until I get a low life warning and then plug it in to recharge. My understanding is that it is not healthy for the MBP battery to stay plugged in all the time.

"The Bluetooth mice don't always need a dongle and if the Mouse control software you are currently using doesn't work properly, maybe give SteerMouse a try, I believe they have a demo trial available or don't use any third-party software if you don't need any custom settings. Apple's System Preferences > Mouse settings might be enough and all you need." - The mouse is USB controlled and I have never added any software, it is a simple plug & play. I've tried adjusting all of the mouse controls in the Settings tab which has provided no improvement in function.

Think I covered everything, if not let me know. Again, I appreciate all the help!!

 

[ferrarr]

My understanding is that it is not healthy for the MBP battery to stay plugged in all the time.

The battery/charging systems are much smarter now. They will discharge (allow the device to run off the battery) while plugged in and not charging.

I leave mine plugged in all the time.

 

[krs]

Okay will try to address all the questions:

Logitech mouse model # is M705

Plugged into the hub:
Mouse USB Receiver
HDMI to Dell Monitor

What moodel Dell Monitor?
And I assume the monitor is powered by AC not somehow via the hub.

USB Cord For Connecting Phone to Sync with MBP

The hub is plugged into the Thunderbolt port on the MBP

No issues charging the MBP it goes from 15% to 100% very quickly

"You want to plug your Apple power cord into the one marked PD INPUT, then plug the adapter into the MBP."- I don't understand what value this would have..........

It would possibly provide more power to the hub and thus to the Logitech mouse dongle.
I would really suggest you try that to see if it makes a difference especially since doing that doesn't cost you anything other than a few minutes of your time.

all the help!!

 

[MacInWin]

I don't understand what value this would have since I run the MBP off the battery until I get a low life warning and then plug it in to recharge. My understanding is that it is not healthy for the MBP battery to stay plugged in all the time.

Actually, what you are doing is shortening the battery life. Lithium batteries do NOT like being taken really low, and much prefer to be in the 60-80% range. As was said earlier, your Mac will take care of that if you leave it plugged in all the time. My MBP is, right now, "hovering" at 78%, plugged in. It takes about a week for the system to "learn" that you are leaving it plugged in, at which time it reduces from 100% to 80% and hovers there unless you go back to battery for a while.

 

[pm-r]

Okay will try to address all the questions:

Logitech mouse model # is M705

Ahha, I also have and use Logitech Marathon Laser M705 mice and also my wife also use one with our older 2007 and 2011 iMacs, since they were first released 2013 era, and I used to say and recommend them to many Mac users and were one of the best mice I have ever used in my Mac using life. That was until I bought a new one after I had updated my OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan Operating System and started having trouble with mine.

I should point out here that I discovered that Logitech made a few changes to their latest Logitech Marathon Laser M705 USB Wireless Mouse, and this image I had saved shows the differences:


The original model is shown on the left the newer one is on the right and the picture shows the differences highlighted in red and the skid pads on the later model or much smaller, they also removed the Hidden number 8 thumb button from the original model, yet they still kept the same model description and number. Rather stupid in my mind.

I mentioned this fact and your mouse problem may be because of the software you are trying to use. Their support site help was basically useless but did finally send me a new USB dongle but it did not fix most of my problems which was to do with tracking and scrolling.

I mentioned the differences above as it seems that the original Logitech M705 Mouse relies on the Logitech Control Center preference pane, and the Logitech Unifying USB dongle must be the correct one to be compatible. The newer later model Logitech Marathon Laser M705 Mouse (on the right in the diagram), seems to need the newer Logitech options preference pane. Unfortunately, they are not marked to differentiate them.
Either mice models both need the Logitech Unifying Software to let the preference pane software know which Mouse device is connected.



After I finally got everything more or less matched up and compatible, I was finally able to get the Logitech software to work as it was supposed to, or at least better than what it was doing which was driving me up the wall.

Unfortunately not even the third party SteerMouse software that I paid for made things much better but at least it got the Logitech mouse into a workable state and I was able to customize some of the buttons that I want to use, but the operation was not smooth as my old Logitech M705 mouse had been years ago.

I hope some of this information can help you with your mouse problem you mentioned in your first post of this thread if any of it is actually related to your problem.

I don't know what Logitech softwarefor you have installed and are using or its version. Logitech's support site is not exactly overly informative and neither is their telephone support site, at least not in Canada.

Yes, at least I was able to get one of my Logitech Marathon Laser M705 mice and it's dongle working properly with my iMac, and I was able to customize some of the buttons the way I wanted, similar to my old original Logitech Marathon Laser M705 mouse that actually had the "hidden # 8" button.



- Patrick
=======

 

[Jimmysb]

Actually, what you are doing is shortening the battery life. Lithium batteries do NOT like being taken really low,

Not really lithium battery life is determined by charge cycles, so the more often you charge it the more you shorten the life. My iPhone and iPad are normally not charged before they reach 20% battery power, and have a good battery life.

 

[pm-r]

Not really lithium battery life is determined by charge cycles, so the more often you charge it the more you shorten the life.

Not so is to go by my wife's e-bike lithium battery which was only just over a year old and had only been charged about half a dozen times, but had to be replaced a few weeks ago by the dealer as it was deemed dead and kaput.

But no guarantee really as my wife's neighbor friend has exactly the same bike with the same amount of use and charges and her battery is still working fine. Go figure.

Also my handicapped mobility scooters lithium battery pack died and will not charge any longer after it was repaired for the same problem a year ago men with very few charges needed as the gauge said it was fully charged. Not so.

At least good old lead-acid and lead-acid-gel-cell batteries were certainly more reliable and didn't need to use any internal battery control circuit board to control their charging and safety, and it is that circuit board I suspect of causing the problems with all lithium batteries we have had troubles with.

Now I'm beginning to wonder about the manufacturers and the advice they give for maintaining lithium batteries, but I don't like it when paranoia-type thinking starts coming into the fore.




- Patrick
=======

 

[MacInWin]

Not really lithium battery life is determined by charge cycles, so the more often you charge it the more you shorten the life. My iPhone and iPad are normally not charged before they reach 20% battery power, and have a good battery life.

Sorry, but that is illogical.

LIthiium batteries decline for basically three reasons:

1. Time -- They ALL start to decay as soon as they are manufactured. It's slow, but eventually just time will kill them. Note that it is NOT the day they are put into service, it is the date of manufacture.

2. Cycles -- A lithium battery has a finite number of "cycles" in it. A "cycle" is defined as going from fully charted to fully discharged and back to fully charged. It's not necessarily linear, but most folks equate that with partial discharges, so going from 100% to 50% and back to 100% is "half cycle." That's not scientifically accurate, but it's generally ok. The number of cycles is not really fixed, and two identical batteries may differ on the number of cycles before the max capacity starts to decline sharply. And the batteries that Apple uses should outlast the "average" user's use of the machine, although folks who keep old hardware around far beyond when Apple says they are "vintage" will start to see battery issues.

3. Deep discharges and/or overcharging -- The chemistry in the battery doesn't perform well if the battery is either deeply discharged ( < 10% ) or over-charged. To avoid the latter, most batteries have a "reserve" capacity that is not available to the user as the battery reports "full" before it gets to truly 100% charged. Cheap chargers have ignored the "full" signal in the past and continued to charge batteries past the warning, which is why I don't buy or use cheap chargers. Apple's power supply and circuits in the MBP and MBA (as well as iDevices) are designed to maximize the battery life by NOT forcing the battery to true 100%. On the Discharge end, the chemistry is such that the charge from <10% to 40% or so is harmful to the chemistry. If you want to maximize the time your battery will be at close to max capacity, keep the battery between 40 and 80%, only going to 100% or below 40% when absolutely necessary.

As for why your post is illogical, If you assume that a battery has, let's say, 365 "cycles" (Most have many, many more than that, in the thousands, but I want to make a quick point) and you take it deeply discharge once a day, you will get roughly a year's service before the battery starts to roll off charge capacity pretty badly. But if you take that same battery and "cycle" it from 100% to 50% and then back to 100% each day, you use roughly a half-cycle a day, which means the battery would go two years before the same "cycle" count, lengthening the battery "life" overall. Even better cycle that same battery from 80% to 40% and then put it back on the charger to get back to 80% or so and the battery max charge will stay close to max for a very long time. It is not how many times it goes on the charger that shortens the battery life, it's how much of the capacity has to be returned to the battery on each charge.

Do some reading here: Learn About Batteries

Those folks make and service batteries and have an extensive series of articles explaining how all kinds of batteries work and should be maintained.

In "real world" usage, the batteries and power supplies from Apple are designed to maximize the life of the battery, even to the point where, as I said, if I leave my MBP on mains power the battery is eventually lowered to 80% charge and held there to maximize the overall battery life.

 

[IWT]

And - in iDevices, and I presume Mac Notebooks, there's a setting to optimise battery life.

On an iDevice > Settings > Battery > Battery Health & Charging > Optimise Battery Charging (Turn ON).

Just above the "Optimise" option, it will show Maximum Capacity; which is a measure of battery capacity relative to when it was new. Lower capacity may result in fewer hours of usage between charges.

Further information is provided under the heading "Peak Performance Capability".

And at the top of that screen, there is some information about rechargeable batteries, with the option to Tap on "Learn more" which takes you to Apple Support where they go into detail about batteries.

I summary, there is a wealth of info about your battery usage in there showing, for example, battery usage by App.

Ian

 

[KoobCAM]

What moodel Dell Monitor?
And I assume the monitor is powered by AC not somehow via the hub.

It would possibly provide more power to the hub and thus to the Logitech mouse dongle.
I would really suggest you try that to see if it makes a difference especially since doing that doesn't cost you anything other than a few minutes of your time.

Dell Monitor S3221QS
Yes it powered by AC, not the hub

Will try to plug the MBP into the hub and report back.

 

[KoobCAM]

Ahha, I also have and use Logitech Marathon Laser M705 mice and also my wife also use one with our older 2007 and 2011 iMacs, since they were first released 2013 era, and I used to say and recommend them to many Mac users and were one of the best mice I have ever used in my Mac using life. That was until I bought a new one after I had updated my OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan Operating System and started having trouble with mine.

I should point out here that I discovered that Logitech made a few changes to their latest Logitech Marathon Laser M705 USB Wireless Mouse, and this image I had saved shows the differences:


The original model is shown on the left the newer one is on the right and the picture shows the differences highlighted in red and the skid pads on the later model or much smaller, they also removed the Hidden number 8 thumb button from the original model, yet they still kept the same model description and number. Rather stupid in my mind.

I mentioned this fact and your mouse problem may be because of the software you are trying to use. Their support site help was basically useless but did finally send me a new USB dongle but it did not fix most of my problems which was to do with tracking and scrolling.

I mentioned the differences above as it seems that the original Logitech M705 Mouse relies on the Logitech Control Center preference pane, and the Logitech Unifying USB dongle must be the correct one to be compatible. The newer later model Logitech Marathon Laser M705 Mouse (on the right in the diagram), seems to need the newer Logitech options preference pane. Unfortunately, they are not marked to differentiate them.
Either mice models both need the Logitech Unifying Software to let the preference pane software know which Mouse device is connected.
View attachment 38430


After I finally got everything more or less matched up and compatible, I was finally able to get the Logitech software to work as it was supposed to, or at least better than what it was doing which was driving me up the wall.

Unfortunately not even the third party SteerMouse software that I paid for made things much better but at least it got the Logitech mouse into a workable state and I was able to customize some of the buttons that I want to use, but the operation was not smooth as my old Logitech M705 mouse had been years ago.

I hope some of this information can help you with your mouse problem you mentioned in your first post of this thread if any of it is actually related to your problem.

I don't know what Logitech softwarefor you have installed and are using or its version. Logitech's support site is not exactly overly informative and neither is their telephone support site, at least not in Canada.

Yes, at least I was able to get one of my Logitech Marathon Laser M705 mice and it's dongle working properly with my iMac, and I was able to customize some of the buttons the way I wanted, similar to my old original Logitech Marathon Laser M705 mouse that actually had the "hidden # 8" button.



- Patrick
=======

Yes, I have the new model shown on the right. Like you and your spouse, this is my favorite mouse I have ever used!

 

[pm-r]

Yes, I have the new model shown on the right. Like you and your spouse, this is my favorite mouse I have ever used!

Could you explain in a bit more detail what your actual problem is with your Logitech M705 mouse that you explained in your first post it seems that it is not working the way you want it to, which is rather strange behavior for your favorite Mouse to behave.

ie:

Since I added a Dell monitor to my MacBook Pro M2 my Logitech wireless mouse has been wonky, but now the lag on it has caused me major frustrations trying to work. I've tried adjusting every mouse speed/tracking option with no improvements.

- Patrick
=======

 

[KoobCAM]

What moodel Dell Monitor?
And I assume the monitor is powered by AC not somehow via the hub.

It would possibly provide more power to the hub and thus to the Logitech mouse dongle.
I would really suggest you try that to see if it makes a difference especially since doing that doesn't cost you anything other than a few minutes of your time.

I tried plugging the MBP into the hub port you suggested, but that did not seem to help and the battery was losing power, so it wouldn't charge the MBP.

 

[KoobCAM]

Could you explain in a bit more detail what your actual problem is with your Logitech M705 mouse that you explained in your first post it seems that it is not working the way you want it to, which is rather strange behavior for your favorite Mouse to behave.

ie:





- Patrick
=======

Mouse freezes, extremely slow to respond, huge lag making it impossible to work with. It is an intermittent issue that happens throughout the day always getting worse as the day progresses.

 

[krs]

I tried plugging the MBP into the hub port you suggested, but that did not seem to help and the battery was losing power, so it wouldn't charge the MBP.

I'm sort of losing track ehat was tried already.
Seems to me that the mouse problem starting when the monitor was added was just a coincidence.
Have you tried using a simple wired mouse instead of the wireless one you have?
That would at least tell us if the issue is with the wireless mouse and/or dongle or something on the Mac.
It would also be good if you can plug the mouse directly into the Mac rather than the hub.

 

[pm-r]

It would also be good if you can plug the mouse directly into the Mac rather than the hub.

+1.

That would be an excellent suggestion to try, and also try doing so using the wireless mouse and its USB dongle and a separate single USB port on the Mac.



- Patrick
=======

 

[KoobCAM]

I'm sort of losing track ehat was tried already.
Seems to me that the mouse problem starting when the monitor was added was just a coincidence.
Have you tried using a simple wired mouse instead of the wireless one you have?
That would at least tell us if the issue is with the wireless mouse and/or dongle or something on the Mac.
It would also be good if you can plug the mouse directly into the Mac rather than the hub.

I don't own a wired mouse

+1.

That would be an excellent suggestion to try, and also try doing so using the wireless mouse and its USB dongle and a separate single USB port on the Mac.



- Patrick
=======

The new MBP does not have a USB port. I've tried to other wireless mouses and they both had the same issue.

 

[MacInWin]

The new MBP does not have a USB port. I've tried to other wireless mouses and they both had the same issue.

Every MacBook Pro has USB ports. The most modern ones are USB-c, the older ones are USB-A.