iMac G5 20" Mid 2005 (Maybe)

chscag

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You were given some great advice over at MacRumors in the same thread you started there. Nick has more or less confirmed what was already said to you in that thread. Just saying..... :goofy
 

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One quick warning. A large percentage of those Caps are blown. If you keep using that machine with those Caps. you will do more damage to the machine. I owned the very last iMac G5 that had the same case and basic design as the Intel macs that followed and using it with those tented caps caused it one day to GO BANG. Literally sounded like a large fire cracker going off inside the iMac! When I took it apart the one cap blew it's insides out all over and did damage to the Power Supply and the other one took out the SATA controller. After that the machine was history.

If you want to keep working with that iMac, please change the caps asap.
 
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One quick warning. A large percentage of those Caps are blown. If you keep using that machine with those Caps. you will do more damage to the machine. I owned the very last iMac G5 that had the same case and basic design as the Intel macs that followed and using it with those tented caps caused it one day to GO BANG. Literally sounded like a large fire cracker going off inside the iMac! When I took it apart the one cap blew it's insides out all over and did damage to the Power Supply and the other one took out the SATA controller. After that the machine was history.

If you want to keep working with that iMac, please change the caps asap.

Thank you for your advice! At this stage I was trying to gather as much information as possible. Do you think changing those caps would do the trick? Or do I have to fix the GPU as well?
 

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Thank you for your advice! At this stage I was trying to gather as much information as possible. Do you think changing those caps would do the trick? Or do I have to fix the GPU as well?

seriously the only to find out for sure is change all the tented/blown caps and then see what happens. It could fix the issue but at this point no one can say yes for sure.

The later G5 iMac was such a pain to get apart and it seemed ok that I never checked. If I would have checked sooner that machine would probably still be working today.
 
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seriously the only to find out for sure is change all the tented/blown caps and then see what happens. It could fix the issue but at this point no one can say yes for sure.

Well I think I will try to change them all. I just hope all that work wouldnt be for nothing.
 

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I bought a set of caps one time for an iMac. I think they were around $15-$20. Might have gone up in price...it was a while ago.

As Dennis said...change the caps & see what happens.:)

- Nick
 
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I bought a set of caps one time for an iMac. I think they were around $15-$20. Might have gone up in price...it was a while ago.

As Dennis said...change the caps & see what happens.:)

- Nick

I was actually thinking about buy two more of these if these could be fixed. Some of the other models were beyond repair I guess. But, I will start with this one and see how it goes. Hope the work is not wasted.
 
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I have a small update:

Now I have two iMac G5 20" machines! Second one seems in better form. I was thinking about reflowing the GPU with a gas burner lighter as suggested by someone. I've also seen it on YouTube. I guess using flux would be a good idea apart from changing the capacitors. What are your thoughts on this? :)
 

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I was thinking about reflowing the GPU with a gas burner lighter as suggested by someone. I've also seen it on YouTube.

I kinda already commented on this earlier in the thread (GPU reflowing & You Tube videos on it).:)

All I can say is good luck (really...I hope you are successful). But don't be surprised if you end up with a permanent doorstop.;)

- Nick
 
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Now I have two iMac G5 20" machines! Second one seems in better form. I was thinking about reflowing the GPU with a gas burner lighter as suggested by someone. I've also seen it on YouTube. I guess using flux would be a good idea apart from changing the capacitors. What are your thoughts on this?


My thoughts...??? A complete waste of time and the carbon build up that will no doubt occur will make it even harder to use proper software and equipment and get the contacts clean.

Your question about using flux suggests to me that you have very little knowledge of proper soldering techniques. I'd suggest you do a bit of reading on proper soldering procedures. Super clean contacts is a must, and there are good reasons that the proper flux and solder is used. Sigh... ::\





- Patrick
======
 
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My thoughts...??? A complete waste of time and the carbon build up that will no doubt occur will make it even harder to use proper software and equipment and get the contacts clean.

Your question about using flux suggests to me that you have very little knowledge of proper soldering techniques. I'd suggest you do a bit of reading on proper soldering procedures. Super clean contacts is a must, and there are good reasons that the proper flux and solder is used. Sigh... ::\





- Patrick
======

I'm not entirely a rookie, but I'm no pro either. But, I do know how to solder and such. I have a professional soldering station, but I'm missing the hot air station. It is quite expensive in my country, but maybe I should make the investment. I will probably use it again on other projects. I emailed to a specialist shop earlier today in regards to proper tools and such. They will probably reply tomorrow (Monday). You guys are right I need to do it right instead of cutting corners.

- - - Updated - - -

I kinda already commented on this earlier in the thread (GPU reflowing & You Tube videos on it).:)

All I can say is good luck (really...I hope you are successful). But don't be surprised if you end up with a permanent doorstop.;)

- Nick

You're right! It may be a bit stupid to cut corners and ending with a doorstop(s). I'm not entirely a rookie, but I'm no pro either. But, I do know how to solder and such. I have a professional soldering station, but I'm missing the hot air station. It is quite expensive in my country, but maybe I should make the investment. I will probably use it again on other projects. I emailed to a specialist shop earlier today in regards to proper tools and such. They will probably reply tomorrow (Monday). You guys are right I need to do it right instead of cutting corners.
 

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You're right! It may be a bit stupid to cut corners and ending with a doorstop(s). I'm not entirely a rookie, but I'm no pro either. But, I do know how to solder and such. I have a professional soldering station, but I'm missing the hot air station. It is quite expensive in my country, but maybe I should make the investment. I will probably use it again on other projects. I emailed to a specialist shop earlier today in regards to proper tools and such. They will probably reply tomorrow (Monday). You guys are right I need to do it right instead of cutting corners.

You could look at things this way. If you're going to experiment or gain some experience reflowing a GPU...might as well do it on an inexpensive 13-14 year old computer.:)

Good luck if you decide to move forward with it...and of course please let us know how things turn out (either way...no judging).:)

- Nick
 
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Major UPDATE!

I have some new information in regards to the iMacs that I bought at the flea market. The second one, which I wanted to buy in the first place is an older model than the one I bought first. The model number for both of them are iMac G5/2.0 98845LL-A (ALS) PowerMac 8.2 and iMac G5/1.8 M9259LL-A PowerMac 8.1. They are both A1076 models. Older one (PowerMac 8.1) seems in better shape, but the previous owner was a hard smoker or so. The entire unit was covered in some yellowy smock. I had to clean it with different items to clean it properly. The problem was the same inside of the iMac. After cleaning it and inspecting it I could see that it was in a “better” form as it had fewer damaged capacitors. As you can see in the pictures most of them are in good shape. The mac does have some artifacts, but it is much better than the newer iMac. I am inclined to think that the problem is not the GPU as such, but mainly a capacitor problem for them both. I think they both have the same problems and both needs to have their damaged capacitors exchanged. Would it make things worse if a reflowed a non-problematic GPU? Or would it just make it “better”? Does anyone know what that black cable is for? I think it is for the Harddrive sensor, but there is no plug for it? Maybe the previous owner changed the HDD?

Thank you for listening ��

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Would it make things worse if a reflowed a non-problematic GPU?

If the GPU in this case is "non-problematic"...why would it need to be reflowed? And...if you tried to reflow a non-problematic GPU...if something goes wrong with the re-flow (which is very well might)...now you have a problematic GPU.:(

Does anyone know what that black cable is for? I think it is for the Harddrive sensor, but there is no plug for it?

I'm probably wrong...but in the 5th & final photo with the black cable...I can see what looks like a white colored socket just to the left of the RAM that looks like a socket that the cable may plug into. Back in the day...many cable sockets were made of white plastic. Now Apple is using black colored cable sockets (same color as the cables & cable connector end).

- Nick
 
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I'm probably wrong...but in the 5th & final photo with the black cable...I can see what looks like a white colored socket just to the left of the RAM that looks like a socket that the cable may plug into.


The ifixit.com site may or should have some decent photos or suggestions that cold work as a guide.

I don't know if the Apple Service Source manuals were available for those Macs but even so, are not the easiest things to get hold of, but maybe try googling but they may only be available via some unmentionable Mac pirate sites.





- Patrick
======
 
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If the GPU in this case is "non-problematic"...why would it need to be reflowed? And...if you tried to reflow a non-problematic GPU...if something goes wrong with the re-flow (which is very well might)...now you have a problematic GPU.:(



I'm probably wrong...but in the 5th & final photo with the black cable...I can see what looks like a white colored socket just to the left of the RAM that looks like a socket that the cable may plug into. Back in the day...many cable sockets were made of white plastic. Now Apple is using black colored cable sockets (same color as the cables & cable connector end).

- Nick

Hey Nick. The cable is already plugged into that white switch. The question is where does the other end go? On some videos I've seen there should be a switch on the HDD tray, which is not there in my case? :eek::\
 

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Hey Nick. The cable is already plugged into that white switch. The question is where does the other end go? On some videos I've seen there should be a switch on the HDD tray, which is not there in my case? :eek::\


Ok...good deal...I got confused.;)

Member pm-r made a great suggestion to visit ifixit.com. Check out the various procedures there for your iMac model. ifixit.com has many different procedures for each computer model...and the procedures are very detailed with lots of photos. I would look at the procedure for removing the logic board...which should almost definitely require the disconnecting of all wires/cable to/from the logic board.:)

- Nick
 

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That latest one you got sure looks better. Be sure no cap is swelling on it's top. Even if there is no leakage it could be bad. I would change anything that looks bad in any way.
 
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UPDATE

I haven been able to remove the artifacts and errors :D:p The Cleaning did the job, but I will still replace the damaged capacitors! And also upgrade the RAM to max and perhaps install a SSD in them both (if possible).

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