Connecting your Mac to your TV

[wolfandwavey]

wolfandwavey:

You did pick up the remote for the Sony and press the Input button (the one at the top next to the power button) to change it to the VGA input?

I'd try 1920 x 1080, 1280 x 768, 1360 x 768 and 60hz.

There shouldn't be a resolution there with an i next to it, but if there is, don't pick it - for sure that will not work.

If a no go and since the exact same adapter & cable work on another monitor (right now - not the last time you tried it 3 months ago), I'd try a SMC reset.

If that doesn't work, then I'd probably get myself a mdp to hdmi cable for attaching to that Sony. And have to set the Screen Format to Wide and Display Area to Full Pixel. Probably just because I have not personally used anything VGA in well over 10 years.

thanks for the reply, i tried all these without luck - it had to be the tv setting I thought - then finally noticed a menu on the tv which sorted the issue for me - the problem was the pc input was grayed out and I couldnt select the pc input - eventually i stumbled upon

menu - settings - external inputs - av preset (doesn't seem intuitive this last menu)

anyway this opens up a list of all the different external input ports and they are all set to auto enable - fair enough I thought but changing pc to always enable (instead of auto) brought up the pic via VGA straightaway - then got the full screen by fiddling with the res (non mirrored) and 1920 x 1080 works perfect! hurrah

hopefully this might help someone else with a sony bravia before any more hair gets pulled out!

 

[ddrfire]

Thanks

I just saw the reply and wanted to say thanks for taking the time to research and stating your recommendations..

 

[tyerra123]

MiniDisplayPorttoHDMI

Hi, I have the mini to hdmi cord and a hdmi cable connected, both cords are new from Amazon. I have a 2010 Macbook 2.4 ghz core 2 duo. When I try to connect it to my 32" Westinghouse LED tv model LD-3240, it does not work. The TV detects the computer, first it blinks blue but then it stays black, but there is a signal because it does not say no signal. On the computer the screen blinks blue but then it turns white and blinks. I can't see anything on the computer screen. It stays like this until I unplug the cord. Can you suggest a solution?

 

[bobtomay]

tyerra123:

See post # 2 in this thread.

 

[pastelado]

Hi, i have an early 2006 imac conected to a samsum tv and everything works great but i wonder if there is a way to turn off my imac's display once i;ve change the primary display to my tv... is there a way? i can do it just with the vlc player. I like to sometimes work with my HD tv (im a video editor)

thanks!

 

[bobtomay]

Doubt it - and don't have an iMac.

You could just turn the brightness down all the way.

 

[Nighthawk4]

My TV is Sony 32BX320.

I am considering three options:

1. Connect my 2008 20" 2.66 iMac. This one link
2. Connect my 2008 MacMini. Think this is correct link
3. Get an Apple TV unit and attach that. Would I then be able to stream from iTunes on either of the two Macs over my Wireless LAN?

I will add the exact details of the Macs when I get home and can check their details - fairly sure the above links are for the correct ones

The problem with Apple TV is that my Broadband speed is not fast enough for direct streaming of video. My download cap is not good either. My Blu-Ray player has an Internet connection (an RJ-45 not Wireless) and this can cope with YouTube but not BBC iPlayer. Is there any point in buying one of those just as a Wireless link between TV and the two Macs, apart from the fact I could then send data from either Mac?

 

[bobtomay]

Nighthawk4:

First question is where do you want the sound?

Second, is the iMac already in close proximity to the TV? You're not going to want to be moving it back and forth to connect to a TV.

 

[Nighthawk4]

Nighthawk4:

First question is where do you want the sound?

Second, is the iMac already in close proximity to the TV? You're not going to want to be moving it back and forth to connect to a TV.

Ideally the sound should come from the TV, but I suppose that is not essential.


The iMac is about 3 metres from the TV.


The MacMini is at the moment the other side of the room, but it would probably be moved adjacent to the TV, which I suppose means it would function more or less as the AppleTV would. A sort of wireless access point for the TV.


Incidentally, one disadvantage of the AppleTV is that my TV has two HDMI ports, one for the Sky+ box and one for the Blu-Ray player. Not sure if splitting HDMI is a very good idea, or even if it is possible, so that would mean one device would have to connect via the SCART socket, probably the AppleTV. If it helps, I already have a SCART to red, white and yellow phono leads (can't remember what that is called). Also have SCART to SCART leads of course. Can I get an adapter to plug video and audio from the AppleTV into a single SCART plug? Maybe a lead which connects HDMI to SCART?

 

[bobtomay]

Nightwawk4:

Your iMac is a mini-DVI and you'll need a mini-DVI to HDMI adapter.
The Mac mini has a DVI - you'll need a DVI to HDMI adapter.

To get audio to the TV with an HDMI input from your Macs, you must use HDMI # 1 on the TV.
See the bottom of page 10 in the manual for specifically where on the TV. Disregard the connections on the other side.

If you're going to go back and forth between the Macs, I'd recommend getting a high speed HDMI cable and a stereo 3.5mm mini-jack and keep them permanently connected to the TV and just roll them up and stuff behind it when not in use.

AppleTV - If all you want to pass to the TV is what you have in iTunes, then the Apple TV is a no brainer. If you have other internet video you want to get to the TV, you still pretty much need a computer. This is a personal matter on what's acceptable.


For most of those wanting to connect a computer to a TV, having only 2 HDMI ports is a problem. What I recommend to those here in the states in this situation is to use a component connection (red, blue, green video cable) between the satellite/cable receiver and the TV, with HDMI for the computer and Blu-ray. (Example with the audio cable built in.) Component will pass 720p and 1080i.

An HDMI switch is a possibility, but I rarely recommend that route since component will get the HD signal to the TV without the need for another piece of hardware.

Don't know that much about scart, but according to my understanding it is not a Hi-def connection and I'd not recommend it for use with any of the devices you're talking about. It'd be good for an old VCR though.

Here's a link to more info about your TV and the manual specifically, etc.

You'll need to find the appropriate cable lengths for your set up. I'd suggest not using any cables over 3 meters.

 

[jiminee]

Hi everyone,

I've been reading the first few pages of this thread (as well as searching through Google, which actually led me here), but I haven't found an answer to the issue I'm having. I was wondering if anyone can help me out.

I have this Macbook, this TV and this cable (and an audio cable). I've hooked everything up and the video is great. The problem is the constant static sound I'm hearing. I've tried turning the volume up and down on both the TV and the Macbook, but the static sound is constant (of course, muting the TV would shut the sound off). I've also tried disconnected everything else from the TV but the cable to the Mac itself but the static issue is still there. Also switching from either of the HDMI slots didn't help (both works well when hooking up my cable box).

Can anyone help me figure a solution out? Should I get a MiniDisplayPort to HDMI and a separate HDMI cable instead of the one I got? Or is there something I'm missing?

Thank you.

 

[Nighthawk4]

I notice the Apple TV only goes up to 720p. The WD TV link does 1020p.

I suppose that wouldn't cope with stuff bought via iTunes though

How about non-DRM stuff in iTunes?

The WDTV is cheaper and does a higher res but not DRM media.
The ATV is more expensive and lower res but does DRM.
I suppose that about sums it up?


On a different approach, if the ATV doesn't do 1020p, is it better to connect that with something other than HDMI if I am short of HDMI sockets on the TV? Both the Blu-Ray player and Sky+ HD can do 1020p, so should I give those the better connections? If so, what other options can I use for the ATV?

I imagine the red, white and yellow phono ports are not wise. So I have the five phono sockets (Composite?) or SCART? There is also some sort of optical connection - is that sound only?

 

[bobtomay]

jiminee:

Where are you plugging in the audio cable? You must use the R/L jacks directly below the 2 HDMI ports on the back of the TV when connecting via HDMI.

If you are using those ports for the audio cable, does the static disappear when you disconnect the audio cable? If yes, check the ports (can of air) on both the Mac and the TV to make sure they are not dirty - while they are turned off. Have you tried moving that audio cable around - as in away from other equipment to see if the static gets any better or worse? No go, replace the audio cable.

If you are getting the static even while the audio cable is unplugged, then I'd replace the mdp to HDMI cable. You should not be getting sound of any kind without that audio cable being plugged in.

 

[Nighthawk4]

I bought the Apple TV. Very nice little device - it's tiny

Using one of the HDMI ports so far, as the convertor and cables to use anything else add up to a tidy sum - close to the cost of the ATV itself.

Also ordered the five phono cable from Amazon. That should be here tomorrow. Then I will see if the Blu-Ray Player is happy with that - which leaves one HDMI for the Sky+ HD box when Sky get around to arranging the installation. At the moment I still have the basic Sky box which uses the SCART.

First impressions of the ATV are good. Tricky getting the time setup. The Apply Support Forums suggest lots of people get that problem. Once that was sorted, the picture is good, sound OK. It seems music videos are not made to a very high definition. The pictures look amazing on a large screen.

Have also used the Remote App on the iPad to control it and briefly used iTunes on the iPad as the music source. Very cool

 

[bobtomay]

The Blu-Ray player may have issues with some discs using component because there is no HDCP with component, which may cause the player to either downgrade the output or have no output at all. Have not really checked into the HDCP issue related to this in several years so not really sure how you might be affected today.

This is why I recommend using the component with your satellite/cable box. There is no HDCP to deal with there (at least here in the U.S. and you'll still get 720/1080 output.

You only need to input 720 with a 32" screen since that's going to be it's native resolution and it will downgrade a 1080 input to that anyway.

 

[Nighthawk4]

Does this apply even with HD channels on satellite?

It looks as if Component may not be suitable at all - unless I go for the convertor and cables option with the ATV

Might have to try the switch box - was hoping to avoid that.

 

[bobtomay]

Don't know what makes you think component is not suitable. It is the only analog high definition port/cable available.
I see no reason for you to invest in a converter.

It applies here with both DishNetwork and DirecTV. While those boxes have their own brand of encryption - it deals with preventing people from copying content from the DVR - not with the ability to be able to play it in the first place which is what HDCP does with Blu-Ray content and iTunes also does with their newer content.

I use an A/V receiver for switching at 2 locations in the house. Limited to 3 HDMI on one and 4 HDMI ports on the other. I personally use component for the satellite connection in both locations, reserving the HDMI ports for other items - PS3, Blu-Ray, HD-DVD, computer, AppleTV, Roku, etc. Component has no problem passing either 720p or 1080i and I've used it with 1080p sets ranging from 42" to 65".

If you know what satellite box you're going to be getting, pull up the owner's manual and verify.
If it has component out, then you should be set.

 

[dustyjapanese]

Wallpaper disappears and deck (sometimes?) disappears when connected to HDMI

I have the following Mac and the applications and video all push through just fine but I am unable to see my wallpaper when connected (goes blue) each time. More puzzling, the deck is inaccessible when connected to the television about 50% of the time. Any help is appreciated.

Hardware Overview:

Model Name: MacBook
Model Identifier: MacBook5,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 3 MB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MB51.007D.B03
SMC Version (system): 1.32f8

Sudden Motion Sensor:
State: Enabled

 

[ceege111]

1080p vs 1920x1080 problem

2011 13" MBP 2.3, Westinghouse VR-3225 1080p set

I connected my last computer, a 15" 2011 MBP to this display and it gave me the option to output 1920x1080 which came out very clean. When I got this one I used the same cables and adapter and I get 1080p (Television) which is aligned properly (no overscan or anything) but does not output as clean. This new MBP has a thunderbolt port. I thought it might be that so I got a mini-displayport to HDMI adapter thinking that it was something to do with the adapter and get the same thing exactly with a straight HDMI cable. There aren't many settings for the tv to choose the display mode, and it's aligned just fine. I think if the mac can just output the right thing the TV will show it properly but for some reason it's gone now.

I have tried forcing the res in switchresX and when I choose a "Standard" 1920X1080x60 it says "not activated - invalid?"

It works but it's just not as sharp - I guess it's going through the video processor on the TV whereas it was not before, and that's maddening since it worked so well before.

Any suggestions? I am guessing that I have to set some advanced custom res in switchresx but don't know where to begin

I just plugged in an Acer 23" monitor and it did not allow a 1920x1080 either but rather 1080p. No scaling problem, image is perfect. Weird.

 

[bobtomay]

I have the following Mac and the applications and video all push through just fine but I am unable to see my wallpaper when connected (goes blue) each time.

Option 1: System Preferences - Displays - Appearance - put a check mark in Mirror displays.

Option 2: If you're going to use extended desktop mode, right click on the desktop of the TV, select Change Desktop Background and change it to whatever you want.

More puzzling, the deck is inaccessible when connected to the television about 50% of the time. ...

The deck???

I can only "assume" you mean the dock. You need to give me more info than this. Or head back to Post # 2 and read item # 2.