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Very poor quick shot this morning - I don't know who was most surprised :)

Exif says F5.6 @ 1/500, Nikkor 28-200mm at 200mm

Is there any way I can improve this with post processing?

Cheers :)

Hugh

Ducks Flying 800.JPG
 
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Is there any way I can improve this with post processing?

Cheers :)

Hugh
Well yes and no. This is no fixing sharpness or blown out areas. But you could add some false sharpening, but it want be a true as if it was a planned shot.

Many times I shoot 1 stop under exposed. What I find is I can always bring out something slightly under exposed without any issues or loss in image quality, but if something is over exposed and blown out. The data is flat lost.

My normal routine in Lightroom is bring down the Highlights, bring up the shadows, then adjust the Black and White balance. From that point I can then decide if I need to adjust the exposure some. Add some clarity, vibrance or/and saturations. Also depending on the effect of the image, I can lessen the contrast for a soft image, or add more contrast for a grungy look.

Cheers,
Joe
 
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Thank you, I have an older version of Lightroom (2.7) so I shall try your suggestions out.

Cheers :)

Hugh
 
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Couldn't resist giving a little teaser of some of my photos from Taipei, Taiwan.
(C) Exodist Photography, All Rights Reserved.. Sorry have to add this because of Google image snatching..

Enjoy..

ExodistPhoto - 20140328 - 2991.jpg

ExodistPhoto - 20140330 - 284_5_6_7_8-HDR.jpg
 
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for a quick shot Hugh that's not bad. Which part of Kent are you in?

Joe - I went ahead and got the adobe cc thing (at about 11:55pm on 31 March!!) You?

Edited as I've just seen your pics. The first one is stunning - love the sky. That would print beautifully :)
 
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for a quick shot Hugh that's not bad. Which part of Kent are you in?

North Kent, Hoo peninsular, which is between the Medway and the Thames :)

Cheers :)

Hugh
 
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My sister lives in Shipbourne near Tonbridge. Lovely part of the world.
 
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Well yes and no. This is no fixing sharpness or blown out areas. But you could add some false sharpening, but it want be a true as if it was a planned shot.

Many times I shoot 1 stop under exposed. What I find is I can always bring out something slightly under exposed without any issues or loss in image quality, but if something is over exposed and blown out. The data is flat lost.

Cheers,
Joe

To retain the most data in your image you should actually expose more to the right of the histogram (overexpose) than to the left (underexpose).

I am not saying this to be argumentative it is just a fact and contrary to what you suggest.

Simply Google ETTR. An old acronym used by photographers for exposing to the right to maintain maximum data.
 
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To retain the most data in your image you should actually expose more to the right of the histogram (overexpose) than to the left (underexpose).

I am not saying this to be argumentative it is just a fact and contrary to what you suggest.

Simply Google ETTR. An old acronym used by photographers for exposing to the right to maintain maximum data.

ETTR will retain most detail in shadow areas without introducing noise. Only to be used when shooting RAW though. I always tend to (very slightly - probably about 1 stop max) overexpose and then bring back the highlights rather than lifting the dark areas in PP.
 
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A Song Sparrow cheerfully telling us spring has arrived here in Southern British Columbia.

2zem15z.jpg
 
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lovely and sharp
 
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My sister lives in Shipbourne near Tonbridge. Lovely part of the world.

Tonbridge and Tunbridge Wells are probably the best looking parts of Kent, whereas from your photos you have much more scenery around you.

Cheers :)

Hugh
 
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Better? or overdone?

Taken on a misty morning in the fens of Cambridgeshire by the way ...

Cheers :)

Hugh

Ducks Flying.jpg
 
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Joe - I went ahead and got the adobe cc thing (at about 11:55pm on 31 March!!) You?

Edited as I've just seen your pics. The first one is stunning - love the sky. That would print beautifully :)

Actually got it about 3 or 4 weeks ago even though I already owned LR5. Largest reason why was Photoshop CCs Photomerge for Panoramas is just hard to beet. Tried so many and I do a lot of them now and doing it for my business I am building up. So productivity wise it was just best choice. Besides 9.99 a month, heck used to pay 14.95 to wast time playing World of Warcraft. And never made any money playing WoW.

Thanks, but looking at them and I seem to over saturated the images. I am bad about doing that, then coming back about a day later and peal back the color a tad to make look a little more realistic. I will even crop one up for my desktop background and stare at it for a week to make sure I am happy with the final results.
 
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Hope you dont mind Nick, I had a go with your image. Best edit I can do with Jpeg. But somewhat better, at least in my eyes.

ExodistPhoto - 20140403 - 1.jpg
 
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To retain the most data in your image you should actually expose more to the right of the histogram (overexpose) than to the left (underexpose).

I am not saying this to be argumentative it is just a fact and contrary to what you suggest.

Simply Google ETTR. An old acronym used by photographers for exposing to the right to maintain maximum data.

As per the image sensor yes. But when you are faced with huge variants in brightness. Its best to under expose one stop. ETTR is only valid when you dont have any under or over exposed areas, i.e. perfect exposer. Which generally only happens in a studio or lots of luck.

To compensate for blown out areas when its really bad, I will take bracketed images to get my exposer smoothened out and try to eliminate blown out or underexposed areas. Sad part this requires A LOT of post processing some times. I can frequently have around 50 images or more to form a 100 to 180 Megabit pano thats properly exposed the way I want it.

I actually prefer to shoot at night, which is one reason I may upgrade to a 6D in a few years. Hopefully the 6D mrk II by then..
 
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As per the image sensor yes. But when you are faced with huge variants in brightness. Its best to under expose one stop. ETTR is only valid when you dont have any under or over exposed areas, i.e. perfect exposer. Which generally only happens in a studio or lots of luck.

ok
I see you are set in your ways so I will not try to convince you but I must say I simply disagree.
 
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ok
I see you are set in your ways so I will not try to convince you but I must say I simply disagree.

Why would you want to? I mean, we all have our own ways of doing things. We can give advice, and that is simply it, just advice. Like all advice, it sometimes helps, but it always doesn't fit the needs of the one your giving it to. It is on the receivers end to decide if he or she wants to take that advice and see if it works for them. You should not feel let down or disgruntle if your advice doesn't work for everyone. I highly appreciate you taking the time to give advice. I really do. But in the end Photography is an art and the cameras are our brushes that we use and how we use these brushes determine our final product and most importantly determine our portraits final outcome. That final image says who made it and speaks for the artist.

I fully understate ETTR, I know why technically this is ideal. But I also know if real life, as I shoot outdoors under what ever lighting the sun gives me. 99% of the time, images are not flat and you will have extremes of both under and over exposer. And if you over expose to high you loose data, now when I say over expose I mean data that has blown out of the right side of the histogram and all information is lost. By dropping 1 exposer this can be compensated for as normally you will have less underexposed image during the daylight. This shifts the image exposure getting more into the histogram and more tonal range.

But, if you can control your lighting, like in a studio environment, using ETTR will insure you images have almost zero noise and the sharpest most detailed images possible. But from my experience this only works in a studio were control the lighting.

Now a little background information on myself. I grew up wanting to be an artist, and I worked hard. Art, Music and Science were and still are my obsessions. Unfortunately my hands went bad. First I lost my ability to draw without sever cramps, then my ability to play music instruments for more then a song or two went as well. I no longer write, I can barely sign my name and its never the same way each time. But took everything I learned from that and use it everyday with photography. I dont make any claims to know everything. And like I stated earlier Photography is an Art. Like all art it is suggestive..
 
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I fully understate ETTR, I know why technically this is ideal. But I also know if real life, as I shoot outdoors under what ever lighting the sun gives me. 99% of the time, images are not flat and you will have extremes of both under and over exposer. And if you over expose to high you loose data, now when I say over expose I mean data that has blown out of the right side of the histogram and all information is lost. By dropping 1 exposer this can be compensated for as normally you will have less underexposed image during the daylight. This shifts the image exposure getting more into the histogram and more tonal range.

Try using exposure compensation settings to deal with extremes rather than 'compensating" with the actual meter setting.

The reason I questioned some of your advice is that when help is asked by photographers who do not know these techniques it is best to give the facts and explain why rather than each person give their special formula. Which I do agree with you, everyone will create an image differently to get the results they are seeking. But much better to learn and understand the fundamentals first wouldn't you agree?
 
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........ But much better to learn and understand the fundamentals first wouldn't you agree?

Sure I fully agree with that.

As for Exposure compensation, I normally shoot Manual.. So its disabled of corse. If I am in Av, sometimes..
 
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