is this the logic board again?

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hi - I'm using an old G3 ibook which I love and am trying to remain faithful to despite the screen only coming on at certain angles and the motor in the combo drive having given out. I've had the logic board replaced once - it's in the dodgy batch as far as I can tell. However now the screen is completely black at start up. I can still access everything via firewire from a desk-top mac (ie the hard drive is fine and all the data is still there) and occasionally it will start up - date reset but otherwise OK - but seems to be suffering from a loose connection somewhere in that when I moved it a bit it flickered and died. I'm wondering if it's the logic board again but have been told this are not typical symptoms - I don't really have money to spend on it as I'm studying this year. Anyone got any advice?
 
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Your Mac's Specs
MacBook,2Ghz CD,1.5GBRAM,100GBHD,SL.PowerbookG4 12"1Ghz,768MbRAM,40GBHD,Leopard.imac G3 400Mhz,10.4
If resetting doesn't work, head over here and rip that mother open. Nothing to be afraid of.

www.ifixit.com
 
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Yup! 99% sure it IS the logic board.

I have had the same problem. I posted about it on my blog and got alot of replys from other people who have had the problem.

If you want to drop by and check it out its here
 
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J
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remaining faithful

thank you all for the replies - I will let you know how it goes...
 

dod


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Your Mac's Specs
15" Macbook Pro 2.5 core2duo, 2GB Ram, 250GB HDD; 12" ibook g3 600mhz, 640mb ram, 100GB HD
i would check out the inverter board and inverter cable, i am going through similar problems with my g3. the screen would only light at certain angles and if it moved it went black again.
 
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J
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any hope for apple to fix this?

so I found out that it is the logic board (again) but apparently Apple don't want to replace it even though it's in the serial number range of the dodgy batch. That seems a little unfair to me. Has anyone else had any luck getting logic boards replaced?
 
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J
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fixed it - thanks to you all

Did my own fix-it job after some help from here and ifixit.com. I took the bottom casing off, stuck some paper/card (ok there's a fire-risk but I'll deal with that) in there on top of the square in the metal at the appropriate place to put some pressure on the bad connection. It's working fine. Thanks to you all.

J
 

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