Incidentally, even though Adobe seems to want to price Photoshop beyond the means of all but professional photogs;
Hi everyone,
I have attached the details of the picture.
The picture is too big to be uploaded, 10MB and 6****x resolution...
I am using the P option on the camera.
18-55 lens
I was at about 6 feet from the subject.
-- oh, and if I can ask another question; The muslin backdrop I bought doesn't come out as pure white and there are wrinkles of course. What would be the best way to put the background completely white? Photoshop and lasso tool? I thought that with the muslin I would have less editing to do.
I wouldn't disagree in principle on the impact of flash vs shutter speed. However, attempting to use a small flash in bounce I'm not so sure you can rely upon it alone to "freeze" the subject, especially with significant ambient light.
Regardless, it is hard to see why using a tripod would detract since the OP isn't having to carry it over hill and dale to shoot.
I do understand. Doug says it better, below, than I did.Well then you do not understand the principle of flash duration because the duration of the flash is even shorter at lower power settings. This is what freezes the subject, not the shutter speed.
Try this if you need proof: Setup in studio setting for a portrait using flash. Use M mode and set your shutter speed to 1/15 second. Take a frame. Now change the shutter speed to 1/125 and compare. They will be identical in exposure and subject will be sharp.
If you are not using flash then of course the shutter speed is important.
You also misunderstood what I intended regarding a tripod. I meant that it would not 'help' to freeze the subject as was indicated in some of the answers. It will be of benefit to keep the camera secured in a position you want to frame the subject and keep the exposures constant in regards to lighting.
Very thorough discussion given by BCRose. However, I differ with him/her on one aspect. Shutter speed can matter when using flash simply because the duration of the flash is so short. At the 1/15 second duration mentioned or slower, then, depending upon the amount of ambient light, you can get noticeable ghosting (unless the subject is inanimate and the camera is on a tripod). A living subject will almost certainly move some as will a hand held camera. Also, as previously pointed out, a shutter speed in excess of the camera's sync speed might produce an unevenly illuminated frame.
As an interesting test of how stead you can hold a camera, take two laser pointers. Place one on a table shinning on a wall. While holding the second one, try to keep your dot on the one generated by the table's.
Very thorough discussion given by BCRose. However, I differ with him/her on one aspect. Shutter speed can matter when using flash simply because the duration of the flash is so short. At the 1/15 second duration mentioned or slower, then, depending upon the amount of ambient light, you can get noticeable ghosting (unless the subject is inanimate and the camera is on a tripod). A living subject will almost certainly move some as will a hand held camera. Also, as previously pointed out, a shutter speed in excess of the camera's sync speed might produce an unevenly illuminated frame.
As an interesting test of how stead you can hold a camera, take two laser pointers. Place one on a table shinning on a wall. While holding the second one, try to keep your dot on the one generated by the table's.
I do understand. Doug says it better, below, than I did.
In essence, what you are saying is correct only when flash provides the majority of light for the total exposure. When ambient light is significant, shutter speed matters.
Very thorough discussion given by BCRose. However, I differ with him/her on one aspect. Shutter speed can matter when using flash simply because the duration of the flash is so short.
Good day,
I am having trouble taking good pictures.
I have a nikon 3200, with a sb-200 flash, bought a 10x20 muslin white and black.
I am taking the pictures in the base with a suspended ceiling (white). Muslin is hanged on the wall.
Subject is on the muslin, I aim my flash to the ceiling and the picture is still grainy...
Their is not much light in the basement... Is that why?
Should I get lights?
Any reason why it is doing that?
Thanks!
First lets ask. Do you know anything about photography and how your camera works. Now dont take this the wrong way. I am honestly not trying to sound rude, but this will help us know your knowledge level to better help you.
I am going to assume the worse and try to work my way from here to help you.
Before I begin I would like to say the 3200 is more then enough of a camera for indoor/studio portraits. Don't let anyone tell you other wise.
First off the "grainy" look I am going to assume is from your camera using a High ISO to compensate for poor lighting.
But lets first start by explaining the exposer triangle. You have your lens Aperture on one corner, the ISO sensitivity on another and shutter speed on the last. If you adjust anyone of these, your exposure changes.
It is generally a good practice to keep your ISO low as possible. 100 being the normal low for most cameras will offer the least amount if any noise. This is even more important when shooting in lower light conditions.
Now your lens Aperture determines your over all depth of field. For outdoor portraits you generally want to get the largest aperture you can. f/1.8 is about standard and offers a nice blurred background behind your subject. However in studio photography, its generally a practice to have your lets from about f/5.6 to f.7.1. This is because the quality of your image can be better at those apertures in most lens and you want as much of the subject and the background in focus as much as possible.
Last is your shutter speed. You always want your shutter speed faster then say your focal length. Since you D3200 using a 1.5 APS-C cropped sensor, we would need to know your lens focal length. But for example if you have a 50mm lens just say (50 x 1.5 = 75mm). Which means you want to keep your Shutter Speed at 1/75th of a sec or faster to prevent movement blur (your movement not the subject). Faster the better, and a tripod is recommend. If however your wanting to freeze say a sports car or a basketball player in actions 1/500th or faster may be required.
Now if you follow these rules and your exposure is still to dark, you need to increase lighting. Many professional soft boxes alone can put out over 1500watts of lighting and many times multiple ones may be required.
Hope this helps..
Joe
I give up....
Hi,
my SB-200 is not wireless I think because there is no R in front of the 200.
Should I get myself another flash (wireless) so it can flash at my backdrop? I have tried to search on BestBuy for one but I can't seem to see if it is wireless or not and how it would work. I suppose I need a base on that flash so it communicates with the d3200.
Adding equipment may help but is not the answer to your problem. ..........................
If your SB 200 can not be triggered by your built in flash and if it (SB 200) has a pc input (small round hole or plug), t...............