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MacBook air 2010 shuts down after unplug

M

MBAmtloin

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Getting mackers!
yup, the dang thing just shuts down!
usually after the 3rd unplug that day.
just now i gently removed the mage-safe chord and vrrntz, total shut down!
could be the 3rd party $19.99 adapter, but I punched that in June and works.
im using Highest Sierra and the other laptop seems fine as far as electrical currents.
reset pram, ran dusk utility, but i only bowed down and praised tim jobs only twice to day.
this is just weird!
 
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krs


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Have you checked if the battery still holds a charge?
After all, that battery is pretty old if you never replaced it.
The app Coconut battery might help
 
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Have you checked if the battery still holds a charge?
After all, that battery is pretty old if you never replaced it.
The app Coconut battery might help

Ditto.
Obviously the fist thing to check. :Smirk:
If the battery does not have enough capacity left, it will just shut down when unplugged from AC power.

If the battery is the original one, it is well past it's prime by a long shot.

Patrick
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M

MBAmtloin

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thanks for the advice and replies, the battery is swell! i mean great- last at least 4 hours with MtLion.
the only thing i can think of is somehow the connection to the battery gets unlatched somehow.
everything else is in pristine condition.
except for that 'ol power button and cap lock light.
 
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That sounds reasonable, but I don't really understand how a 10-year-old battery can still be in what you call great
shape, but quite possible I guess.

Patrick
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M

MBAmtloin

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Battery Information:

Model Information:
Serial Number: C011023024FDCMGAQ
Manufacturer: DP
Device Name: bq20z451
Pack Lot Code: 0
PCB Lot Code: 0
Firmware Version: 301
Hardware Revision: 1
Cell Revision: 173
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh): 3892
Fully Charged: Yes
Charging: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 3892
Health Information:
Cycle Count: 475
Condition: Normal
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 0
Voltage (mV): 8321
 

krs


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Battery Information:

Model Information:
Serial Number: C011023024FDCMGAQ
Manufacturer: DP
Device Name: bq20z451
Pack Lot Code: 0
PCB Lot Code: 0
Firmware Version: 301
Hardware Revision: 1
Cell Revision: 173
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh): 3892
Fully Charged: Yes
Charging: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 3892
Health Information:
Cycle Count: 475
Condition: Normal
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 0
Voltage (mV): 8321
I powered up an old 2011 MacBook pro I have lying around gathering dust.

Two things struck me looking at your battery information:

1. The reported voltage is only 8321 mV, on my MBpro it shows 9616mV - so that is more than 1 volt less.
Maybe that is not an issue - I don't know off hand what it needs to be.

However, the second item:
The amperage shows at 0 milliamp. I assume that measurement is what is being drawn from the battery by the Mac at this point of time.
So the battery contributes no power to the Mac since I assume you have it plugged in when you took this screen shot.
When I run the MBp with the power cord plugged in, the amperage for me shows 159 milliamps

Maybe others can add their comments on what the battery readings should be, but to me the ones you are getting don't sound right.
My readings are on a late 2011 MBp - maybe someone has the same 2010 MBa and can check the voltage/current reading on theirs for comparison

It's also possible that the 3rd party charger created part of the problem in not charging the battery to the full voltage and that's why you see the readings you get.
 
M

MBAmtloin

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KRS: Thanks, i will let my MacBook air know all this info.
how is the MacBook pro 2011? great machine!
i might get an iMac from that era.
as far as the 3rd party, the voltage-amps and chord are the same, just not the 79.99 price
I am not giving  80 bucks every 3 -4 years anymore.
the MacBook was charged, running great almost 3 hours on 10.13 until this weekend when unplugged the 3rd time that day.
 

krs


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I used to buy 3rd-party charges for the MacBooks because of the price, but eventually they all create a problem.
When you open them up they contain very primitive circuitry compared to the genuine one and I have not yet found a 3rd-party one that works the same as the Apple one.

One easy way to check without ripping anything apart is to watch the LED on the magsafe connector when you plug the charger into the Mac.

With AC power already applied, on a genuine Apple charger, there will be about a one second delay before the LED comes on - on all the 3rd party ones I have tried so far, the LED comes on right away.
Technically there is a big difference between the chargers and if the 3rd party one is designed really poorly, it can actually damage part of the MacBook power circuitry.

I now look for a used Apple OEM charger on ebay - they don't cost much more than a new 3rd party one and you don't run the risk of damaging the Mac.
 
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Your Mac's Specs
2019 iMac 27"; 2019 MacBook Air; macOS up-to-date... always.
I used to buy 3rd-party charges for the MacBooks because of the price, but eventually they all create a problem.
When you open them up they contain very primitive circuitry compared to the genuine one and I have not yet found a 3rd-party one that works the same as the Apple one.
^ THIS! You get what you pay for. Apple's chargers cost more, but for a reason. They are exceptionally well engineered.

As for the amperage being 0, there's a discussion on Apple's forums that explains it. Basically, they say if the battery is fully charged and you are plugged in, it will read 0.
Battery Info Amperage=0 - Apple Community
 
M

MBAmtloin

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surprisingly this 3rd party power supply is built better (solid state) than the  one which was made by samsung that purchased in 2015 and gave me fits all last year. The newer one waits about 1.5 seconds to go green, then amber.
i took the older samsung one a part several times last spring and was disappointed in the construction of the supply pack were the transitions were flimsy among other things.

Tomorrow morning i will unplug the chord and see what happens. I do have an older original 2010  power supply pack i might infuse a mag-safe chords i can find online. I might just get a set of new pentalobe screws for the outer case to make sure the battery connector stay in the logic board, because i think that is the problem.
 

krs


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As for the amperage being 0, there's a discussion on Apple's forums that explains it. Basically, they say if the battery is fully charged and you are plugged in, it will read 0.
Battery Info Amperage=0 - Apple Community
I just checked the MBpro after the battery was fully charged, and yes - that is correct - the amperage does read "0"

However, the voltage now reads 12270 mV, much higher than the OP's
So I still think there is a problem with the battery and possibly the charger.
 
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I just checked the MBpro after the battery was fully charged, and yes - that is correct - the amperage does read "0"

However, the voltage now reads 12270 mV, much higher than the OP's
So I still think there is a problem with the battery and possibly the charger.
Oh I totally agree he has an issue with the battery at the minimum. Coconutbattery can provide some more insight, but after 9 years, it can't be good.
 
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MBAmtloin

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well the verdict is the connection tab somehow disengages from the logic board.
whew!
 
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well the verdict is the connection tab somehow disengages from the logic board.
whew!
That would do it! Just goes to show that what seem like the "obvious" culprits aren't necessarily the actual problems at hand.
 
M

MBAmtloin

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That would do it! Just goes to show that what seem like the "obvious" culprits aren't necessarily the actual problems at hand.
i learned that 2 weeks ago, i gave up on a iMac g4 that just needed a battery.
m=soemone here had logictek mouse connection problems, the verdict was a lodged cat hair!
 
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