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Apple Computing Products:
macOS - Desktop Hardware
iMac G5 20" Mid 2005 (Maybe)
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<blockquote data-quote="MacInWin" data-source="post: 1814692" data-attributes="member: 396914"><p>I still have to ask how you removed the caps. Normally one would heat them from the bottom, where the solder is and then when it is melted, pull that leg of the cap out by tilting the cap a little, then heat the other leg, pull it out and then dispose of the cap. Then you go back and clean up the solder pads with a wick or vacuum sucker. The body of the cap provides the grip and leverage to pull the legs out. When you are done, the board should look almost like nothing had ever been there.</p><p></p><p>And like Patrick, I still see a LOT of solder around the legs in the upper picture. With a good wick and a clean iron, almost all of the solder should have been pulled up from those pads. It's not a hotter iron, just melting is all you need, but the wick needs to be clean and the iron needs to be clean to get the heat on the solder.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MacInWin, post: 1814692, member: 396914"] I still have to ask how you removed the caps. Normally one would heat them from the bottom, where the solder is and then when it is melted, pull that leg of the cap out by tilting the cap a little, then heat the other leg, pull it out and then dispose of the cap. Then you go back and clean up the solder pads with a wick or vacuum sucker. The body of the cap provides the grip and leverage to pull the legs out. When you are done, the board should look almost like nothing had ever been there. And like Patrick, I still see a LOT of solder around the legs in the upper picture. With a good wick and a clean iron, almost all of the solder should have been pulled up from those pads. It's not a hotter iron, just melting is all you need, but the wick needs to be clean and the iron needs to be clean to get the heat on the solder. [/QUOTE]
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Apple Computing Products:
macOS - Desktop Hardware
iMac G5 20" Mid 2005 (Maybe)
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