Decided to buy another MacBook Pro, used this time. Analytical work!

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So, I bought my new 15" MBP the other month, and I realized it's too nice to use for work :D

I wanted to buy something that was as cheap as possible, but still had a core i7 processor.

I first went on CraigsL and bought what was supposed to be a "MINT" 13" MBP that had "always been in a protective case" for $280. I made the mistake of trusting his words and not doing a deep inspection, as well as rushing to buy it almost at midnight. I know, right! Stupid move. After taking the case off, it was VERY clear that it had been dropped, and after turning it on, the EFI warning came on. In the end, I got my money back.

Right after that, I ordered a 15" MBP i7 on ebay for $251. This wasn't an abnormal price, and it was a featured sale item on the daily deals. It was listed in good condition with a "B" rating. I was madly disappointed to find that this B rating includes DEEP scratches, dents, and missing RAM! Quickly returned that, even though it ran fine.

I had come to the realization that I needed to re-evaluate this situation, and eliminate some models. If you ever thought choosing between a new MacBook Pro was hard, wait until you have to choose from used ones.

I tried narrowing down my decision from Macbook Pro models from 2010 to 2014.
All models that had GPU issues were of no interest(2012-early 2013 Retina, and unibody 2011)
All standard resolution models were of very little interest, unless the price was too good.
It either needed to be a retina screen or the hi-res matte screen.
It needed to have 16gb of ram.
Having a dedicated GPU was not important as long as it has 16gb, but still wanted it.
I don't care if the retina models have the anti-coating issue.(easy fix)
Listing had to have photos of actual MBP being sold. No if, ands, or buts about it.


In helping decide, I put together a spreadsheet with price, specs, performance, pricing, and general info. This helped my in deciding, and I easily learned which models sell QUICK!

Screen Shot 2019-05-15 at 9.22.11 AM.jpg
I also added my 15" retina as comparison, and added a color gradient for performance as a quick visual. This allows for an interesting point of view on how performance has improved.

I wish I could add to this spreadsheet to include many more models across many more years. It's very insightful info.

I narrowed it down to either a "Late 2013" to 2014 retina 15", 2012 uni-MBP, or 2010 uni-MBP.

In the end, I bought a Late 2013 retina MacBook Pro Core i7 2.3Ghz, 16gb RAM, 500gb SSD, and Nvidia GT750M 2gb GDDR5. It's in great physical condition and cost $550! This sell FAST on ebay. I missed out on one identically specced out, so I pulled the trigger quick on this one after going through the listing with a fine comb.
 

pigoo3

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So, I bought my new 15" MBP the other month, and I realized it's too nice to use for work :D

Sounds like this pretty brand new MacBook Pro will be a "trailer-queen" (if you know what I mean);)...and not be exposed to the everyday risks and pitfalls a "normal" work computer can be exposed to. Have you gotten a protective case for it yet?:)

I wanted to buy something that was as cheap as possible, but still had a core i7 processor.

I first went on CraigsL and bought what was supposed to be a "MINT" 13" MBP that had "always been in a protective case" for $280. I made the mistake of trusting his words and not doing a deep inspection, as well as rushing to buy it almost at midnight. I know, right! Stupid move. After taking the case off, it was VERY clear that it had been dropped, and after turning it on, the EFI warning came on. In the end, I got my money back.

Right after that, I ordered a 15" MBP i7 on ebay for $251. This wasn't an abnormal price, and it was a featured sale item on the daily deals. It was listed in good condition with a "B" rating. I was madly disappointed to find that this B rating includes DEEP scratches, dents, and missing RAM! Quickly returned that, even though it ran fine.

I've been purchasing used computers for my own personal use for over 20 years now (mostly eBay and Craig's List)...and the way I approach each of these types of deals is definitely somewhat different (and some parts are the same). Sometimes the only way to learn these things is thru practice and trial & error. Hopefully none of these experiences has turned you off to purchasing used computers...the benefits of purchasing used are very very real (save big $$$$ vs. new)...just need to be very very detail oriented during the discovery & investigating phases.

Of course as you discovered (especially with Craig's List)...good/great deals can disappear VERY VERY quickly (they get snapped up VERY fast). Thus sometimes you need to have the cash ($$$$) ready to go (no running to the bank or ATM)...be ready to jump in your car...and meet with the seller ASAP! Then once you meet with the seller...need to know EXACTLY what to look for & test...since after you hand over the cash to the seller...and part ways...99% of the time...the deal is done.

I had come to the realization that I needed to re-evaluate this situation, and eliminate some models. If you ever thought choosing between a new MacBook Pro was hard, wait until you have to choose from used ones.

I tried narrowing down my decision from Macbook Pro models from 2010 to 2014.
All models that had GPU issues were of no interest(2012-early 2013 Retina, and unibody 2011)
All standard resolution models were of very little interest, unless the price was too good.
It either needed to be a retina screen or the hi-res matte screen.
It needed to have 16gb of ram.
Having a dedicated GPU was not important as long as it has 16gb, but still wanted it.
I don't care if the retina models have the anti-coating issue.(easy fix)
Listing had to have photos of actual MBP being sold. No if, ands, or buts about it.


In helping decide, I put together a spreadsheet with price, specs, performance, pricing, and general info. This helped my in deciding, and I easily learned which models sell QUICK!

I also added my 15" retina as comparison, and added a color gradient for performance as a quick visual. This allows for an interesting point of view on how performance has improved.

I wish I could add to this spreadsheet to include many more models across many more years. It's very insightful info.

I narrowed it down to either a "Late 2013" to 2014 retina 15", 2012 uni-MBP, or 2010 uni-MBP.

In the end, I bought a Late 2013 retina MacBook Pro Core i7 2.3Ghz, 16gb RAM, 500gb SSD, and Nvidia GT750M 2gb GDDR5. It's in great physical condition and cost $550! This sell FAST on ebay. I missed out on one identically specced out, so I pulled the trigger quick on this one after going through the listing with a fine comb.

Wow...you did some heavy duty research there! Congrats on finally finding something that meets your needs. Even though a 2013 MacBook Pro is 6 years old...it being spec'd out the way it is (16gig RAM, 500gig SSD, dual GPU)...all for $550...sounds like it will get the job done. And your main goal (being able to use it as your "work computer")...has been solved...since you won't be as concerned about a $550 MacBook Pro getting a possible small ding or scratch!:)

Congrats!:)

- Nick
 
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Knowing me, I'll be just as annoyed if I get a scratch on it:rofl
I've noticed that if an Apple device is well specced, age is not as noticeable until there is a shift in processor/OS compatibility. RAM is the biggest issue for me. In the end, I'm glad it didn't work out for the first two MBPs because I'm happier with the current purchase.

I can't wait until it gets here!
 

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I've noticed that if an Apple device is well specced, age is not as noticeable until there is a shift in processor/OS compatibility. RAM is the biggest issue for me.

I tend to agree. Somewhere (maybe starting about 8-10 years ago)...many Apple computers can still function reasonably well in 2019. I have four Apple computers that I use on a regular basis (3 from 2011, and one from 2010) that can still get everyday computing done (internet browsing, email, social networking, music, video, streaming, etc.).

But if someone needed to use an Apple computer for work purposes...needs to run heavy duty demanding apps...and get projects completed as quickly & smoothly as possible...I can understand needing something newer & faster. I can also understand that a 2010/2011 computer can be too slow for some folks (for everyday tasks)...since many users want things to be as fast as possible...whether personal or work related.:)

In the end, I'm glad it didn't work out for the first two MBPs because I'm happier with the current purchase.

I can't wait until it gets here!

Ahh...I didn't quite realize you didn't have it yet. Hopefully it arrives soon...and is everything it's supposed to be.

Of course please let us know when it arrives...and how it checks out!:)

- Nick
 
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I tend to agree. Somewhere (maybe starting about 8-10 years ago)...many Apple computers can still function reasonably well in 2019. I have four Apple computers that I use on a regular basis (3 from 2011, and one from 2010) that can still get everyday computing done (internet browsing, email, social networking, music, video, streaming, etc.).
And don't forget, the alternate option for me would be to use the standard HP chromebooks that they have at work. I think. Scratch that. I know my Note9(8gb RAM & 512gb built in flash storage) can run circles around most chromebooks once connected via Samsung DeX and a monitor.




Ahh...I didn't quite realize you didn't have it yet. Hopefully it arrives soon...and is everything it's supposed to be.

Of course please let us know when it arrives...and how it checks out!:)

- Nick

I sure will. I will also be doing pretty much a full teardown and applying new Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste. I plan on doing a simple picture guide just for fun.
 

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Received my Late 2013 Retina MBP

Sorry for the deal. Have had this now for a couple of days, but been busy to actually do anything with it.

Having been greatly disappointed with my last two purchases, I was getting myself ready to be let down again.

I WAS WRONG!!:D

The rMBP came in the best packaging possible. I could probably survive a 20 foot drop with the wrapping it had:rofl

20190517_132105.jpg

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20190517_134312.jpg

It's in fantastic condition. The bottom has one light scratch on the corner of the picture.
The condition of the MBP surpassed my expectations...which means now I actually have to take care of it:app:laugh
I was preparing to fix the screen delimitation issue, but the screen isn't even that bad to bother with it. My plan was
to remove the whole anti-reflection coating, and then add a matte screen protector that I already ordered and came in.

Along with the screen protector, the light gray case, new sleeve, and Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste are already here.
 
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Cleaning the guts

After inspecting it, I turned it on to double check the specs and test everything. I let it sit while playing a Netflix movie. While playing, I noticed it got SUPER hot!!
I took the case apart to clean and eventually lead inspecting the high quality thermal paste Apple uses(sarcasm).

Pulled out my trusty computer/small electronics repair tool kit and went to town.

20190517_134801.jpg

Again, I was surprised!

20190517_134813.jpg

20190517_134827.jpg

It looked like it was never opened or messed with. Just the way I like it!

Used my cleaning toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol to clean everything up.
It's crazy how many water indicators there are in here!!

20190517_144038.jpg

Next up is the thermal paste
 
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Applying new thermal paste

So, Apple has a history of not using the best quality thermal pastes, as well as doing a horrible job of applying it.

I've never been a fan of the all-in-one heatsink setup found in computers like this MBP. I like heat to be distributed individually, but can't do anything about it now.

Since the heatsink found on this MBP spans almost the whole width of the MBP and screws down on multiple areas, you need to be careful when removing and screwing it down to prevent excess force to a certain side of the board.

Below is a photo showing the screw removal pattern to use when taking off the heat sink.
The GPU uses a typical 4-prong plate, while the CPU uses a plate with 2 bow springs to clamp down the heat sink.

20190517_202005.jpg

Once you release screw #1 and #2, that will release all tension on the bow springs.
Screws #9 and #10 are removed last because they are the main anchors. #10 is last because the whole heatsink has to slide into #10 position for it to go back in.

Look at this mess!!:Oops:

20190517_202539.jpg

There is so much paste everywhere and it was dry similar to dried up clay! Both the GPU and CPU use a plastic liner as a cover for some dumb reason. There is MUCH more past underneath it that I didn't take a picture of. There should NEVER be enough paste applied that is causes the overflow to reach the capacitors of the chip! It just blows my mind, especially since it is all trapped underneath this stupid plastic liner. No wonder it heated up so much.

When it comes to applying paste, there is much controversy over how to apply and how much to apply. I use my own method and take responsibility for the products I own, and for that reason, I won't say how or show photos of it. However, I will say that I use Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste. In my opinion, it's the best without getting ridiculously expensive pastes with precious minerals. It's crazy how well it works.

Below is a photo of of the chips after cleaning. I originally wanted to reuse the plastic liner, but they mad me mad so I threw them out. This is why you see the clue strip around the edge that I wanted to preserve. Unless you are using conductive paste, I don't see a purpose for them.

20190517_205616.jpg

And this is after putting the heatsink back on.


20190517_212237.jpg


20190517_212338.jpg



The heatsink slides in at an angle into screw #1's position, and then you lay it down over the other wholes as you line everything up. It's pretty simple.
STEP ONE- Partially screwing down all of the following screws in their numbered sequence:
  • Screws #1 and #2 are screwed down as the core anchor.
  • Then followed by #3 and #4 screws on the GPU.
  • #5 and #6 follow to initiate the bow.
  • #7 and #8 are next. Use a finger to press down on the bow while screwing them in. While they are still loose, align both bows so they are centered on the heat sink.
  • Screw in #9 and 10.
STEP TWO- Screw down all screws following their numbered sequence.
 
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All my goodies

And for the finale...here's a picture of my stuff:D

20190518_211741.jpg

Mac Pro, 15"rMBP w/TouchBar, 15"rMBP, 17" Powerbook, 15" Asus ROG GL551.

20190518_211053.jpg


20190518_215326.jpg

20190518_215411.jpg

I had to cheat with the PB and plug it in lol

I didn't realize that the new MBP w/Touch Bar are so much smaller than the previous retina MBPs.

The thermal paste shows a RIDICULOUS difference in temperature. I can barely feel the heat while watching the same movie, where the previous paste caused the aluminum between the keyboard and screen to get super hot. This paste just never ceases to amaze me!
 

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