Camera Metering

[nickyr]

There was a thread here a while back where Joe Jackson (Exodist) stated that his preferred method for photographing landscapes was to expose for the highlights and then lift the shadow detail in post processing.

Another poster stated that this approach was flawed and I too was of the opinion that "exposing to the right" and recovering details in the highlights in PP was the proper way to go about things.

Nikon's new D810 has a new metering mode where it exposes for the highlights. When I saw the results of this (in the attached thread from the Amateur Photographer forum) I was quite astounded.

Staggering - Nikon's new Metering Mode

It would seem that modern sensors are recording much, much more detail in the shadows, allowing the detail to be lifted out in PP without loss of IQ or the introduction of noise.

 

[Lightcraftsman]

I've been shooting landscape photos for decades, from 4x5 slides and B&W to early digital cameras and now on Fuji X Trans. I've read some well-respected photographers advising shooting for the shadows and always considered them wrong. Whether shooting film or digital the proper method is to expose for where you want to retain detail. It is that simple.

Most of the time this means I expose for the highlights because when the highlights are gone there is no information to regain in post processing, especially in digital. If I expose the highlights properly I can retain a bit of highlight detail in prints. "What about the shadows?" you say. I pull them to where I want them then check for noise. If the noise bothers me I back off the shadows a bit and let them go black, just like I did back in my darkroom days making B&W prints.

I've always shaken my head at photographers who advise "exposing to the right" as if that will give the proper exposure in all situations, when the reality is that in most situations that practice will lead to blown out highlights. If that is what you want, fine, but as general advice is it misleading.

 

[nickyr]

my usual method was to take meter readings for the highlights and the shadows, and then use a graduated filter to correctly expose for both where possible.

if a filter was not sufficient (say there was a difference of 5 stops between the light and the shadows) then I would expose as far to the right as possible without clipping the highlights, to retain as much detail in the shadows as possible.

now it seems with this new Nikon sensor and processor you needn't worry about filters, etc - just expose for the highlights and lift shadow detail in PP without any fear of noise.

it almost seems to be too good to be true.

 

[Exodist]

......

It would seem that modern sensors are recording much, much more detail in the shadows, allowing the detail to be lifted out in PP without loss of IQ or the introduction of noise.

I tend to remember this too.. hehe

There are people who will listen to people they consider professionals and never question their judgment. Then there are those like myself that question everyone and everything on a daily basis. Every piece of gear I own I will completely test and push its limits to find out what works the best for each piece of gear. This is the advice I recommend the most to everyone.

Now I do underexpose about a half a stop to a full stop at most. But each situation is different and one needs to learn what works the best for their gear. But pretty much any current sensor after about two stops under will start to introduce noise. I have learned to work in the dark as most of my photos are done with natural light or what little there is in the dark at night.. ;P


Also if have extremes of highlights and shadows, just use exposure bracketing. I do this a lot also..