off camera flash

I have a D80 with a SB800 and I want to use a vivitar 285 as an off camera flash.
I need something to plug into the vivitar that will be activated by my SB800.
I'm looking for something inexpensive and small. The vivitar will be on a tripod and this accessory needs to be light in weight.
I live in Toronto.
jaybass

This would be what I would use, were I not using transcievers.


Wein Combination Slave and Foot for Vivitar 283 & 285

Thanks for your suggestion. I have been checking out peanut slaves and I have ordered one made by sonia(?) anyway, it cost less than $20 and the write-up seems ok.
jaybass

flash

Dysfunction said:

This would be what I would use, were I not using transcievers.


Wein Combination Slave and Foot for Vivitar 283 & 285

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I will be taking a group photo (indoors) of about 40 to 50 people. I will have to use my
10-24mm nikon lens. It will have a dome diffuser and not being too familiar with such a large group I'm wondering if I should bounce or shoot dead on. The vivitar I think I will bounce.
What do you think?
jaybass

There are quite a few cheap flash triggers that would work for this, including the cheapest of the lot which is an optically activated switch that is triggered by the light from another flash.

I would certainly try to bounce both flashes, ideally from a white ceiling, but if that doesn't exist you might try a portable reflector on each flash. You would also probably get more even illumination if you use umbrellas or similar.

You'll need to set camera and flashes to manual, which will complicate things for you if you're not used to doing that. This is one of the hardest lighting jobs there is and you'll need to practice beforehand - days beforehand, not just a few minutes before the live shot.

I suggest you look at a specialist photographic site where you'll find lots more pertinent information. The best I know is Canon Digital Photography Forums - Powered by vBulletin which is mainly Canon based (there are a few Nikon threads) but that makes no difference for you, as what you want to do is quite generic.

peterpj7,

Thank you for your input. I intended to use the manual setting. Anyway, after each shot I can immediately see the results so I can change the f stop or exposure and rearrange the flash if necessary. As you suggested, I will try the lay out first because I won't have much time come the actual shoot. Again, thank you.

jaybass

Might want to check out strobist as well

Strobist

Peter is exactly correct. Don't expect chimping to be quick, without experience in off camera lighting. Then again, I cheat and use a meter.. Petty much always.

Yes, Strobist is another good site I use, and there are others as well.

The big problem you'll have is getting illumination to the back of the group. With such a large group indoors I imagine you'll have them in four or five rows, and most lighting solutions will illuminate the front only. When you have the front couple of rows illuminated artificially, the rows behind will appear totally black. I think you're going to struggle to get an acceptable result with just two light sources, however expert and creative you may be. Must this photo really be indoors? If you can have them outdoors in daylight the problem becomes relatively trivial, but you really are giving yourself a mountain to climb.

I tried the set-up I intend to use in my living room which gave me 25 feet from the imaginary subject.
Everything was set to manual including the vivitar and the first pic was slightly over exposed. Both flashes were at 45 degree angles bounced off a white ceiling.(ISO 200 F5.6 1/60 sec.) I then used f8 and it was okay.
The actual room is somewhat larger but I think it will work out fine. I am going to make a white deflector for the vivitar in case I need one. My D80 will be set on rear curtain flash.
jaybass

Just a question, why are you using rear sync? I'd recommend not doing so, it will merely accentuate any movement during your exposure.

If you get any movement immediately after the flash (and you probably will) it will be just as noticeable either way. The shutter is only open for 1/60. Many photographers prefer rear sync, some don't.
jaybass

jaybass said:

If you get any movement immediately after the flash (and you probably will) it will be just as noticeable either way. The shutter is only open for 1/60. Many photographers prefer rear sync, some don't.
jaybass

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IME (and in my opinion) it's more noticeable with rear curtain than with front curtain. Personally, I'd bump it up to 1/125 or 1/250 (unless I can't get the background exposure identical with those speeds, in which case I'd bump the ISO up to match.. (then again, I'd also incident meter and pre-set the white balance rather than chimp). Don't get me wrong, I love rear curtain sync and use it all the time.. just not for formal portraiture, which is what it sounds like you're doing.

I will bear that in mind. I'll probably try the curtain both ways.
Thanks, jaybass

rear curtain

Dysfunction
After reading an article in another forum, I have to agree with you about the rear curtain. Being such a large group (I've been told that there will be about 60 people now) I want to get it right. I appreciate your advice.
jaybass

This is an area of photography I have yet to really explore, lighting, and have been following this thread with great interest. If you would please post back how it turns out.

Razormac said:

This is an area of photography I have yet to really explore, lighting, and have been following this thread with great interest. If you would please post back how it turns out.

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Good. Off camera lighting allows for so much more control of the image, it's well worth the time spent.

This event is several weeks away but I will answer your post and if you havn't heard by the middle of Dec,.
remind me.

jaybass

jaybass said:

This event is several weeks away but I will answer your post and if you havn't heard by the middle of Dec,.
remind me.

jaybass

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Thanks

This post isn't about lighting, it's about your lens. The 10-24mm will make people on the extreme left and right look wide if you're anywhere between 10-17mm. If you're forced to go wider because of room size, place thin people on the outside edges of the group.

ProImages said:

This isn't about lighting, it's about your lens. The 10-24mm will make people on the extreme left and right look wide if you're anywhere between 10-17mm. If you're forced to go wider because of room size, place thin people on the outside edges of the group.

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I disagree, it's ALWAYS about lighting. The lens you use, and it's associated image characteristics is an aside. Without consistent lighting, it'll still look bad.

The one thing that is always true in photography.. the only thing you ever got to work with .. is light.