iMac G5 20" Mid 2005 (Maybe)

[MacGuyFrom1831]

Looks like there's a tab on top holding it in place. If you have already tried lifting that tab up while pulling back on the cable, perhaps try using a flathead screwdriver to lift the tab with more leverage.

I've tried pulling it while pressing down on it. I've tried pushing it up with a twizzer while pulling it. Nothing gives. I'm trying not to use any force and such.

 

[usagora]

I've tried pulling it while pressing down on it. I've tried pushing it up with a twizzer while pulling it. Nothing gives. I'm trying not to use any force and such.

You might try pushing the plug forward and see if the tab will pop up some - then you can pull the plug out. It may be binding.

In your last picture, it almost looks as if that tab might slide. Have you tried pushing it out (parallel to the board, towards the cable wires)?

 

[MacInWin]

It very definitely slides out toward the wires. And there may be three tabs, one on each of the two little open slots you can see on top of the connector, and one hidden in the little pop-up area of the connector. A thin screwdriver can lift up the plastic if you run it between the socket and the plug and gently pry up to release it. I would also push it in, insert the screwdriver and then ease it out.

 

[pm-r]

Does anyone know how to get it unplugged properly without damaging anything please? It has already damaged to of my nails

As Jonathan mentioned, there seems to be a locking tab involved.

See: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+G5+20-Inch+Model+A1076+Logic+Board+Replacement/879

While depressing the connector lock, use a heavy duty spudger to pry the power supply connector away from its socket on the logic board.

It will be necessary to work from alternate sides until the connector is free.

PS: On the wooden "popsicle stick" you seem to be using, I find it very helpful to cut across the end at a 90-degree but also at 45 degrees angle with a very sharp Chef Knife to create plain chisel shape, that can then act as spludger and also act as a wedge or pry area.





- Patrick
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[MacGuyFrom1831]

Another Update

I've taken out the 5 capacitors that needed replacement. The problem is now that some of the capacitors left one of their legs in the hole, which makes it very difficult to make a hole to insert the new ones. Any help or ideas what to do next?

 

[MacInWin]

Use a solder wick to remove all of the solder on the holes with legs in them, Then use a clean solder wick to try to get the leg out of the hole. Once it is all clean, you can heat the hole with the leg in it until the leg is loose and then quickly go after the let with a bit of toothpick to push it through.

 

[pm-r]

As Jake already suggested, use good solder de-soldering wick and the use of a de-solder tool can help, but you can also use one of the rubber bulb blowers they often use to blow the dust off camera lenses. You can also try using a large hypodermic syringe without any needle and use it to suck or blow. Don't leave melted plastic residue behind on the circuit board.





- Patrick
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[MacGuyFrom1831]

As Jake already suggested, use good solder de-soldering wick and the use of a de-solder tool can help, but you can also use one of the rubber bulb blowers they often use to blow the dust off camera lenses. You can also try using a large hypodermic syringe without any needle and use it to suck or blow. Don't leave melted plastic residue behind on the circuit board.





- Patrick
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Hey Jake & Patrick. I've already tried using solder wick and flux also. The **** thing just won't come out. Even tried to cut it down, but it made it more difficult. I have some tooth pick styles metal equipment used as accessories to soldering, but no luck so far. Those caps were nearly impossible to take off.

 

[MacGuyFrom1831]

The legs are stuck in the logic board. I've tried to solder it out using a needle, but it does not help. I've even tried to cut it down so that I could push it out easier. Nothing i working and now I am stuck. I could drill the holes, but it seems as a risky thing to do and I do not have the drill size either.

 

[chscag]

Whenever that happened while repairing equipment, rather than going to great lengths to remove the remains of the component stuck in the circuit board, we would just solder the new component to whatever was sticking out from the board. With capacitors, that's very easy and does not damage the new capacitor. I've personally done that numerous times and it always works as long as you're careful.

 

[dtravis7]

I have had that happen with some boards like in the old days the commodore 64 boards were a pain sometimes to get part off the board. I used to repair boards in my younger years especially for people I knew well.

Whatever you do don't get it too hot as traces could come off the board. I used to be able to fix such issues but with my old eyes it's getting hard. If you can not get the wire out do what Charlie above suggested.

 

[MacInWin]

Wonder if you could use the leg of the new cap to push out the bit that is stuck? Heat up the pad, push in the leg of the new and if it works, go ahead and solder it in. As Dennis said, not to much heat or the board will delaminate.

 

[MacGuyFrom1831]

For those who might be wondering what I am battling with here you have some pictures. Hope someone here can help :-(

 

[MacInWin]

In the second picture there seems to be a good bit of solder left on the leads on that side. Have you used solder wick on both sides of the board?

 

[MacGuyFrom1831]

In the second picture there seems to be a good bit of solder left on the leads on that side. Have you used solder wick on both sides of the board?

I've only used it on the bottom side (Pic 2). I've also used flux in an attempt to make the solder+leg connect better with the solder wick.

 

[MacInWin]

When I have removed components from a circuit board, I have always heated it from the bottom with solder wick, then applied the heat again and gently tugged on the component to pull it away from the board. How did you remove the caps from the board and leave that many legs in it? I still see a LOT of solder on the legs of the caps where all the flux is showing. It almost looks like the cap was cut away from the top, leaving the legs.

 

[pm-r]

As they say, always try using the best tools for the job...

Here are two examples:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhyTpcBY710
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJkEAOkaL-4





- Patrick
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[MacGuyFrom1831]

Now I've tried to remove more solder with a solder wick, solder sucker and flux. The **** legs are like glued to the board! I've even tried to pull them out and to push them out

 

[pm-r]

From what I see, there still seems to be a fair bit of solder on the bottom side of the pins locations, and it also looks like the soldering iron does not have the proper heat to get the solder to flow out and into the wick or to be sucked up.





- Patrick
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[MacGuyFrom1831]

From what I see, there still seems to be a fair bit of solder on the bottom side of the pins locations, and it also looks like the soldering iron does not have the proper heat to get the solder to flow out and into the wick or to be sucked up.





- Patrick
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So you're saying that I need to buy a 100 or 130 watt solder iron? My current one is 48 watt and blasts out 450c.