Forums
New posts
Articles
Product Reviews
Policies
FAQ
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Digital Lifestyle
Images, Graphic Design, and Digital Photography
help with my photography
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Exodist" data-source="post: 1576101" data-attributes="member: 284358"><p>Both very good post.</p><p></p><p>If he is trying to use only one flash, I am going to point out he/she should be using it as their main light and placed about 45 degrees to the left(or right, depends on your right.. lol) of the subject and the cameras on board flash can be used as a fill light. But if the main flash isn't able to be used remotely, man that just causes head aches. But if they going for a Rembrandt style effect, then its no big deal. A soft box can really help take that harshness off the side though. Though back to the point about the muslin cloth being underexposed. Even a single flash should suffice in most cases, but a lot of things can come into play. If you assume the flash is set to max a lot of it can come down to two things, how close the flash is to the subject and the cameras shutter speed. I think I read in one of his post that the flash was pointed at the ceiling. Perhaps he is doing this to defract the lighting, however doing this will make the amount of light take longer before hitting the subject and a longer shutter speed is going to be required before all the light has hit the ceiling, hit the subject and then had time to return to the camera. Getting over to manual mode, failing in say f/4, iso 100 and starting with something like 1/25 second and shorting the shutter speed until the image is properly exposed is a good start. However like I mentioned before many photographers stick their lens on about f/6.3 or 7.1 aperture because this is normally their shaprest point and also gives a clear DoF on both the subject(s) and the background. If the OP does this, **** with a long enough shutter speed alone you can get a fully exposed image with no issue.</p><p></p><p>But ya know keep helping the OP and he hasn't responded in the past few days, so our attempts at helping may be wasted at this point.. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Exodist, post: 1576101, member: 284358"] Both very good post. If he is trying to use only one flash, I am going to point out he/she should be using it as their main light and placed about 45 degrees to the left(or right, depends on your right.. lol) of the subject and the cameras on board flash can be used as a fill light. But if the main flash isn't able to be used remotely, man that just causes head aches. But if they going for a Rembrandt style effect, then its no big deal. A soft box can really help take that harshness off the side though. Though back to the point about the muslin cloth being underexposed. Even a single flash should suffice in most cases, but a lot of things can come into play. If you assume the flash is set to max a lot of it can come down to two things, how close the flash is to the subject and the cameras shutter speed. I think I read in one of his post that the flash was pointed at the ceiling. Perhaps he is doing this to defract the lighting, however doing this will make the amount of light take longer before hitting the subject and a longer shutter speed is going to be required before all the light has hit the ceiling, hit the subject and then had time to return to the camera. Getting over to manual mode, failing in say f/4, iso 100 and starting with something like 1/25 second and shorting the shutter speed until the image is properly exposed is a good start. However like I mentioned before many photographers stick their lens on about f/6.3 or 7.1 aperture because this is normally their shaprest point and also gives a clear DoF on both the subject(s) and the background. If the OP does this, **** with a long enough shutter speed alone you can get a fully exposed image with no issue. But ya know keep helping the OP and he hasn't responded in the past few days, so our attempts at helping may be wasted at this point.. :( [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Digital Lifestyle
Images, Graphic Design, and Digital Photography
help with my photography
Top