Should I get a surge protector or a UPS for my macbook pro?

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I did get one today while I was at walmart, but I am returning it since you practically have to shove things into it, and I didn't realize that it didn't protect against lightning until AFTER I got home. :Oops: What would be better, a surge protector that actually protects against lightning, or a UPS? I know with a surge protector you want the most joules you can afford, but I have no idea what kind of UPS to get since I've never used one before.
 

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Neither an UPS nor a surge protector will protect against a close or direct lightning strike. I lost around $800 worth of equipment some time back due to a close strike. Everything was protected by UPS and surge protectors.

A good UPS with built in surge protection does offer protection against line hits and sudden power off and on dips. Buy an UPS that is able to keep your equipment up and stable during a power off scene. It should be able to keep you up so that you have time to save your work and do a normal shut down. I recommend a 750VA unit or larger for your Mac and maybe some other things like a monitor.
 
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Best and really only effective defense zippy is unplug everything from the mains when lightning storms are about.

Each year there are 1.4 billion strikes around the world, with up to 30,000 amperes so a surge protector or UPS will not protect against that. Use an iBox UPS for my iMac.
 
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Oh, I know there isn't anything in the world that could protect my computer if my house got directly hit...but then again, my dead fried self probably wouldn't be around to whine about it anyway. :p But is there nothing to cover my *** if it hits somewhere that isn't right on top of my house?

Do I really need a 750va one though? The only thing I would be plugging in to the battery side is my macbook, and MAYBE my maschine (which uses a 9V dc power supply) while I'm making music. And would I need one that says it works on pure sine waves? I keep seeing ones that use that in the product descriptions, and I have no idea if those are better or not.
 

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But is there nothing to cover my *** if it hits somewhere that isn't right on top of my house?

Sometimes home insurance covers this (gotta check the policy).

- Nick
 
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Have done in two routers over the past year via lightning strikes travelling down 'phone line when left connected.
 
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I am fortunate to have moved from (literally) the lightning capital of the US to Vancouver Island, where lightning and thunder are both extremely rare. The only lightning I see around here is the connector for my iPhone 5s. <rimshot>
 
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Oh, I know there isn't anything in the world that could protect my computer if my house got directly hit...but then again, my dead fried self probably wouldn't be around to whine about it anyway. :.
For over 100 years, protection from direct hits has been routine. But never with that considered power strip or UPS. Those only claim to protect from a type of surge already made irrelevant by protection inside your electronics. A completely different (and much less expensive) solution is required to avert damage from lightning and other equivalent transients.

How robust is that protection inside appliances? This 120 volt sine wave UPS outputs 200volt square waves with spikes up to 270 volts. Perfectly good power for electronics due to internal proetction. But potentially harmful to motorized appliances. So what would that UPS protect?

How many joules? Well a destructive surge can be hundreds of thousands of joules. So you choose a thousand joule protector over one with hundreds of joules? Yes, others say that is good because they ignored the relevant numbers. Hundreds of thousands of joules. They are both near zero protection.

Again, a completely different device (unfortunately also called a surge protector) is for surges that are potentially destructive. Both UPS and strip protector are also protected by it. UPS is temporary power during a blackout to protect unsaved data (not hardware protection). Best power strip has that all so important 15 amp breaker and has no protector parts. Ttherefore is not a fire risk.
 
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After reading your post westom, it's sounding like I should just get a regular surge protector power strip since you said the UPS doesn't have hardware protection..
 
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After reading your post westom, it's sounding like I should just get a regular surge protector power strip since you said the UPS doesn't have hardware protection..
Why get something that often does less protection than what is already inside electronics? Again, "a completely different device (unfortunately also called a surge protector) is for surges that are potentially destructive. Both UPS and strip protector are also protected by it."

A power strip can, in some cases, compromise protection already inside electronics. In rare cases, caused house fires. Why spend so much money on something that only claims near zero protection? Because so many, educated by hearsay and advertising, recommended it? Useful recommendations provide hard numbers. Your concern is of transients that (ie lightning) may be 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' solution is 50,000 amps. And costs you about $1 per protected appliance. How much for apower strip or UPS that is only near zero protection?

And yes, protection from direct lightning strikes is that routine. But unknown by so many informed by advertising or speculation.

Protection of a structure was explained in elementary school science - lightning rods. Protection of appliances uses a similar technique - 'whole house' protection. In both cases, the valid recommendation says where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.. Both technologies have been proven by over 100 years of science and experience.
 
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So I think I might be getting the 750va one on that page. But one problem...the listing says the surge protection is only 890 joules. Considering how some power strips boast about having 2 or 3 thousand joules of protection, that's a bit low...are there any other UPS products out there that have higher protection? The 600va unit on that page says 1080 joules of protection, but I don't know if the lesser va is going to be a problem or not...
 

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So I think I might be getting the 750va one on that page. But one problem...the listing says the surge protection is only 890 joules. Considering how some power strips boast about having 2 or 3 thousand joules of protection, that's a bit low...are there any other UPS products out there that have higher protection? The 600va unit on that page says 1080 joules of protection, but I don't know if the lesser va is going to be a problem or not...

Remember...a UPS has two functions:

1. As a battery backup so when power is lost you don't lose any data on your computer.
2. Surge protection.

Since you have a MacBook Pro computer (which has it's own battery...as all laptop/notebook computers do)...you don't REALLY need the battery backup feature. The laptop has a battery. So if you lose power...you simply save whatever you're working on...then sleep or shut down the computer. And/or continue working on the computer if you want to while you still have battery power.

It sounds to me (in this thread) that your main concern is surge protection. As you mentioned...many power strips boast surge protection numbers much higher than most/many UPS's. Thus save yourself some money...and get a less expensive power strip with greater surge protection ability...and you're good to go.:)

Here's a power strip for about $36 bucks with 4320 joules of surge protection ability.:)

BELKIN BP112230-08 8 Feet 12 Outlets 4320 Joules Pivot-Plug Surge Protector - Newegg.com

- Nick

p.s. And of course:

- If it's storming outside (thunder & lightning)...and you're using the computer. Simply unplug the charger...and you're off the power grid. Not going to get zapped this way.:)
- If you expect storms (while you are away from home...or at night in bed). Again...unplug the computer for this period of time/night until the storms pass.

p.p.s. Of course if someone is using a desktop computer...the battery backup ability is a MUCH more important feature!:)
 
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. Considering how some power strips boast about having 2 or 3 thousand joules of protection, that's a bit low...are there any other UPS products out there that have higher protection?
A UPS has only one function. Temporary and 'dirty' power so that when power is lost you don't lose any data.

Even power strips only claim near zero protection. A valid recommendation says where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Both technologies (lightning rods and 'whole house' protection) have been proven by over 100 years of science and experience. Why would a thousand joules protector somehow absorb a surge that is hundreds of thousands of joules? Why would a 2 cm part inside an adjacent protector (power strip or UPS) stop what three miles of sky could not?

A power strip can, in some cases, compromise protection already inside electronics. In rare cases, caused house fires. Why spend so much money on something (power strip or UPS) that only claims near zero protection? Because so many, educated by hearsay and advertising, recommended it? Useful recommendations provide hard numbers. Your concern is of transients that (ie lightning) may be 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' solution is 50,000 amps. And costs you about $1 per protected appliance.

Hardware protection was repeatedly defined. Why keep looking for protection using items with near zero numbers and 2 cm protector parts?

Lightning is discussed only because it is typical of all other destructive surges. Other equivalent surges occur without any warning. Even unplugging is a least reliable solution. UPS is temporary and 'dirty' power for data protection. A reliable solution for tens or 100 times less money was defined repeatedly.

Simple concepts. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? A protector is only as effective as its earth ground - which a UPS does not have.
 
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4320 sounds pretty good, I may just have to get that instead even though I don't think I'll need those line in/out ports. Is it hard to get things in and out of it though? I got a similar GE one at walmart a while ago, but had to return it because it was such a PITA to plug things in or take them out.

edit: Potentially stupid question here, but...since the macbook charger doesn't have a ground plug, would I need to charge my macbook on a surge protector with the extension cord that DOES have a ground plug?
 
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4320 sounds pretty good, I may just have to get that instead even though I don't think I'll need those line in/out ports.
4320 joules means it absorbs 1440 joules and not more than 2880 joules. How does that protect from destructive surges that are hundreds of thousands of joules? Why post numbers that you ignore? If a surge is 100,000+ joules, then how does a protector (at $60 per appliance) at only 2880 joules absorb a surge that is 100,000 joules? Read and comprehend every number in that sentence.

Proven solution costs about $1 per protected appliance. Why ignore that number? $1 for a proven soution verses $60 for a near zero solution? Because many only believe advertising and hearsay rather than science. Even Nigerian princes profit from consumers who ignore what the numbers say.

Once a surge current is inside a building, then (for all practical reasons) no protection exists. For a 4320 joules protector to be effective, that surge current must remain outside a building. If the current remains outside, then a 4320 joule protector is not needed. Catch 22. Why waste so much money on a protector that is only useful when it is not needed?

Protection is about earthing a surge. A 4320 joule protector absorbing (at most) 2880 joules has no earth connection. Why would earthing a Mac provide protection? Earthing a Mac would only make that Mac a best and destructive path to earth. Please reread previous posts that explained this. Again, at least three rereads.

Why would a 4320 joules protector (that can only absorb up to 2880 joules) make irrelevant a hundreds of thousands of joule surge? Do not read further. Answer that question.

Facilities that cannot have damage do not spend tens of times more money on a near zero, adjacent (magic box) 4320 joule solution. Why then would you? Please read the numbers. 4320 joules is near zero protection.;
 
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...........
Facilities that cannot have damage do not spend tens of times more money on a near zero, adjacent (magic box) 4320 joule solution. Why then would you? Please read the numbers. 4320 joules is near zero protection.;

Hi Westom - I've been enjoying your posts in this thread - seems to be your occupation and would be curious to know your background, but up to you of course - :)

BUT, the OP needs some specific and concise advice - as for a laptop on battery power, my solution is that nothing is needed, i.e. if a lightening storm is approaching simply take the computer off the charger - believe that others have already made that suggestion.

NOW, a more important question is the use of a UPS w/ a standard computer (i.e. no battery) - I've used UPSs on many of my electronics for years - main reason relative to the computers would be to shut them down safely in the presence of an electrical storm (common for me in North Carolina) w/ the loss of power. Surge protection would be another reason that I've bought these devices for years but realize that a direct strike would be worthless protection, but likely a rarity - now recommending Ben Franklin's lightening rod is certainly valid (I have a FM antenna on my chimney and have it grounded to earth), but what are the facts?

THUS, from your detailed posts and forgetting about the laptops w/ batteries, can you put all of your knowledge into a few succinct statements as to the use of a UPS w/ a desktop computer - thanks. Dave
 

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Westom, can you help people here and tell us where to get a hold of Whole House Protection? I agree that in areas with direct hits, it's the only way to protect your house and equipment.

Give us some examples and URL's where people can get more info if you would please!
 
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Give us some examples and URL's where people can get more info if you would please!
A TV cable (as even required by code) drops down at the service entrance. A hardwire (maybe 10 or 12 AWG) connecct from a TV coax cable to an earth ground electrode. How effective? Protection increases as impedance to earth decreases. That means every foot shorter, no sharp bends, and not inside metallic conduit. A hardwired connection to a best earthing electrode is best protection for a TV cable. Then a surge need not go hunting destrutively for earth via appliances.

Telephone wires cannot connect directly to earth. So a protector connects each telephone wire just as short to the same earth ground. In this case, a telco "installed for free" 'whole house' protector is doing what that hardwire would otherwise do better.

Codes (ie NEC, FCC) require cable, telephone, antenna, ethernet, etc to be earthed either directly or via a 'whole house' protector. That protection should already exist IF a homeowner has inspected, upgraded, or installed a single point earth ground.

Not required is same protection on the most common source of destructive surges - AC electric. Available in electrical supply houses, Amazon, eBay, and a long list of other providers both on-line and in 'brick and mortar' stores.. Siemens, Keison, ABB, General Electric, Ditek, Intermatic, Polyphaser (ProtectionGroup), Clipsal, Leviton, and Square D are some manufacturers. A Cutler-Hammer (Eaton) protector is sold in both Lowes and Home Depot. Some electric companies will rent and install one behind their electric meter.

Search for or ask for a 'whole house' protector. Which ones are best? First, as explained above, a protector must have a dedicated (green) wire for that low impedance (ie 'less than 10 foot') connection to earth. No dedicated earth ground wire means it is not a 'whole house' protector.

Second, lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house protector for residential AC electric is 50,000 amps. That description, an earth ground wire, that specification number, and above manufacturer names make shopping easy. These are routinely sold where circuit breakers and other AC main breaker box parts are sold.

Protectors are simple science. The 'art' is a single point earth ground. Earthing (not a protector) should have most of your attention. A simplest single point ground is a ten foot long copper clad rod driven in earth as defined by the National Electrical code (NEC). Hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate there. How to make a 'whole house' protector better? Upgrade its earth ground - what absorbs energy.. More earth ground rods. Ufer grounds (if building a new home). Encircling a building with a buried wire. Other electrodes are defined by the NEC article 250.52 or in other sources found in most libraries (such as McGraw Hill's "National Electrical Code 20xx Handbook"). A utility demonstrates good bad and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions at:
Tech Tip 08 -Duke Energy

Effective 'whole house' protectors are trivial, simple, and easily located. And defined by one spec number - at least 50,000 amps. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Earthing is the 'art' - where most of a homeowner's attention should focus. Every incoming cable must connect to earth via a hardwire or 'whole house' protector.

Defined are how to shop for a 'whole house' protector. And what should have most of your attention.
 
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Your MBP will run off battery for hours, unplug it from the wall, remove power cable from MBP when there is a thunderstorm.
Get a cheap WIFI modem use that, incase of a lightning strike you only loose the wifi.
But in reality a direct strike on your house probably becomes a fire, and you loose a lot more then the MBP.
 

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