Correcting bad shots

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I was wondering how many of you experienced (and novice like myself) photographers have to correct some or any of your shots in (insert favorite program here) with your mac. I say this because I took my new Xsi out for its first spin at an exhibition that my daughters cheer team put on. In order to get the action shots with the faster shutter speeds, it meant that the pics came out way too dark. If I lowered the shutter speed, then the subjects would blur due to their speed. The lighting wasn't your normal bright stage lighting, just overhead flourescent lighting. For most of the shots, I had the following settings. Shutter speed was at 1/30-1/50, F5.0, ISO 800 when flash used. My wife wanted me to take more shots even if they aren't perfect and have me correct them on the mac. Sorry for the long post, just trying to learn how to use my new Xsi.
 

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You could try lightroom, or photoshop. >_>"
 
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Or Aperture.

I basically make adjustments to all pictures that I want to keep and do something with for the future. It is amazing what improvements you can make with Aperture and in the old days, the work in the darkroom was also important for the final result, not only the shoot just as software corrections are today.
 
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For indoor shots, you could think about using a custom White Balance, or one of the camera's settings so you get the best possible photo under fluorescent lighting.

These days you can apply WB settings to photos afterwards though. I've found Lightroom to be the better package for me personally. But, if you blow a photo out, there's nothing you can do to fix it, and composition needs to be spot on as well, otherwise you'll need to crop, something I don't like doing.
 
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all great suggestions. Thank you. After posting this, my wife told me now that I have a good camera, I should buy photoshop or another program to work with the shots. Couldn't believe she said it, so I am going to strike while the iron is hot....
So basically it seems that most people DO make corrections after loading the photos. I will be trying to get the lighting and settings right before I take the shots, but I guess I shouldn't feel bad about having to make adjustments later.
 
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Use Photoshop or Lightroom to do your editing. I personally use Photoshop, but you can use whichever program you like better.

If your photos are coming out too dark, you might want to adjust the exposure and brightness in your program of choice. That's the most basic and easiest method in my opinion, but there are other ways you can do it in-camera, like adjusting exposure compensation and setting custom white balances.
 
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Learn how to really use that XSi first...cause I know you can get good indoor actions shot w/ it.
 
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Thats the plan, to learn how to really use it and get great indoor action shots. That was the main reason I asked for it for Xmas.... So far I am just using the lens that came in the kit. I will be adding more lenses in the future.
 
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while on the topic of great indoor shots, if i am shooting at an indoor event, inside a convention center with bright stage lights, from about 100 feet away MAX, will the attached flash be enough, if one is even needed.
 
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while on the topic of great indoor shots, if i am shooting at an indoor event, inside a convention center with bright stage lights, from about 100 feet away MAX, will the attached flash be enough, if one is even needed.

How bright is "bright" in your case? If it's REALLY bright, then you shouldn't need a flash. However... in my limited experience using flashes, I would say that 100ft is out of the reach of the built-in flash.
 
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So that I wouldn't hijack someone else's thread, I will put some of my first shots here. Feel free to tell me how to correct them, I am here to learn. I put the settings in the description of the shots. This stage is NOT the typical set up for the events that I will be taking shots at, just my first attempts.

rocketman766_cheerpics - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
 
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Feel free to tell me how to correct them, I am here to learn.

I noticed you said ISO was at 1600 at 10ft away. I would go no higher than 400 if you can help it - too much noise at that high of an ISO. Try using aperture priority set to around f/4 or f/3.5.

Also, invest in a bounce flash with a diffuser. At 10 feet away and what looks to be high ceilings, I'd pull out the diffuser panel used for 14mm focal length on my SB-600 and set it for balance (or fill) flash and it turns out pretty good. Then you can use a faster shutter and reduce blur.

Here's an example where I used the above settings on a boat with low ceilings. Couldn't aim it straight up or at an angle, so pointed forward with the diffuser seemed to work out best.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/3127103207_182a989985_b.jpg
 
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Thank you for your help and comments. I will make the above changes and give them a try. Always looking for tips, plus I am hoping to be able to get a better position at the next event. I will keep posting my shots and will gladly accept more help and comments.
 
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The reality is, the kit lens that came on the camera doesn't open up enough to get a fast enough shutter speed in a gym (the more a lens opens up , the more light comes in). As you get more comfortable with the camera you'll fine yourself wanting a 2.8 is lens. You can fix the white balance fairly easy, but theirs nothing you can do about the motion blur.
An off camera flash would help get the shutter speed up also. If you get one use the camera in p or m mode though.
welcome to the world of spend spend spend that we know as slr.
 
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I find myself using the exposure compensation meter in the viewfinder alot as I am learning and already have mumbled to myself that I would like a 2.8 lens. I have already listed a couple on my "wish list". I keep waiting for my father in law to get back to me with a list of his lenses to see which ones will fit my Xsi... I have no idea what body he has or what lenses, he hasn't touched them in a few yrs so I sit and wait...
 

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