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![]() Member Since: Dec 22, 2006
Location: Texas, where else?
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from some of you pros and semi-pros before I go try and re-invent the wheel? As in a TV screen, computer screen, iPad screen with a DSLR?
Specifically, I need to take some pics of my iPad screen. I cannot be held responsible for the things that come out of my mouth. In the Windows world, most everything folks don't understand is called a virus. Place your vote for our Member of the Month |
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![]() Member Since: Dec 22, 2006
Location: Texas, where else?
Posts: 21,828
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I cannot be held responsible for the things that come out of my mouth. In the Windows world, most everything folks don't understand is called a virus. Place your vote for our Member of the Month |
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![]() Member Since: Oct 27, 2002
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I can't wait to see the answer to this, it's something I've never been able to get quite right.
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![]() Member Since: Dec 22, 2006
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I cannot be held responsible for the things that come out of my mouth. In the Windows world, most everything folks don't understand is called a virus. Place your vote for our Member of the Month |
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![]() Member Since: Jan 22, 2010
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One tip I seem to remember is that NTSC televisions (standard def, not HD) have interlaced fields of 29.997fps, so that's 60 *fields* per second.
Thus, setting the camera to 1/60th or 1/120th exposure should minimize the "black bar" effect and give you a "clean" field. As always, you'll want to try this out yourself ... |
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![]() Member Since: Apr 04, 2007
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Do you just want a shot of the LCD image or a properly exposed shot of the image and the device?
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![]() Member Since: Oct 27, 2002
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Me personally I'm looking for the second thing, both the screen and device.
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Quote:
1. Definitely (if you need to use a flash) take the picture at an angle (not straight on perpendicular to the screen)...otherwise the light from the flash will just reflect back at you...and ruin the photo. 2. If you're taking a photo of your iPad to sell it...I usually like to use a "monochromatic" (single color) towel, blanket, sheet, etc. to lay the item on to help accent the item being photographed. Nothing dark like dark blue or dark green (for an iPad)...but something red, light blue, yellow, orange...or even white...helps to "accent" the item better (no patterns). 3. Clean the item. No finger prints, smudges, etc. You never know what may show up in a photo...especially on "glossy" display's vs. matte. 4. Good strong light (artificial or natural light) helps a bunch. A photo taken in a darker room, even with a flash...just doesn't "POP" like a well lit room (even if the flash still goes off in the well lit room. 5. When taking photos...take multiple angles of the item...and lots of photos. When you get back to your computer to review the photos...sometimes many of them will come out "crappy"...but as long as you get 2-3 good photos..then you're good to go! ![]() Hope this helps, - Nick p.s. By the way...I wasn't 100% sure you meant by "taking a picture of an LCD screen". Do you mean a picture of the hardware itself...or a picture of what actually being displayed on the LCD screen? If you want a photo of what's actually on the screen...I'm thinking you may need a semi-dark room (with flash from the camera) to be able to get a "stronger" image from the display. If in a bright room...the image on the screen my become "washed-out". - Computer slow, too many "beachballs", read this: Beachballs - Computer seems slower than it used to? Read this for some speedup tips: Speedup - Almost full hard drive? Some solutions. Out of Space - Apple Battery Info. Battery |
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![]() Member Since: Apr 04, 2007
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The problem with an LCD screen, unless you can drastically turn down the brightness, which in turn can alter the general appearance to an unfavorable one, is that it's usally much brighter than the ambient light. What you truly need is an off camera light source that's bright enough to expose the device to the same exposure level as the screen. I used a Canon 580EX II speed light with a radio trigger to expose the device. The screen is reflective, so I had to move it off to the side so that the light would expose the device without reflecting off of the screen back the camera. So for the exposure, I put the camera in manual mode and used the right ISO, shutter speed, and aperture that would exposed the number on the LCD screen. Then I set the power on my flash once it was correctly positioned so that it would expose the device to my camera settings. From there it was fire away. ![]() Here's a very good website to get you started with off camera lighting if you're unfamiliar with it. The tutorial is over two years old, so there are other cheaper options that are available now that weren't when it was written. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html |
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![]() Member Since: Dec 22, 2006
Location: Texas, where else?
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Good tips and actually both ways, though primarily at this time, just of the screen itself (what's being displayed) and have it come out anywhere close to resembling just taking a screen shot.
Guess I need to experiment with a combination of the screen brightness and the ambient lighting and maybe actually using my tripod. I cannot be held responsible for the things that come out of my mouth. In the Windows world, most everything folks don't understand is called a virus. Place your vote for our Member of the Month |
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