Thread: skiing/snowboarding photography
01-03-2009, 04:17 PM #1
- Member Since
- Apr 01, 2008
- 15" Matte Macbook Pro 2.5Ghz 4gb RAM 250gb HD, 60gb iPod Classic maxed, iPod shuffle
Woops...sorry about that!!
I meant to post:
I have never done any skiing/snowboarding photography before and my friend has asked me to photograph him in a professional skiing competition he is taking part in tomorrow. He will be doing jumps, rails, etc.
My questions are:
1. What should I set my metering mode at? multi-segment, center weighted, or spot???
2. Should I set my auto focus mode to continuous AF since i will want it to keep focusing as I am shooting??
3. Should I use a wide angle lense of my 70-200 zoom lens?
4. Is there anything specific I need to adjust on my camera? I understand I need a fast shutter speed for still shots, and I know how to pan.
5. Any other tips or hints would be perfect!!!
Thank you very muchLoving my MBP more and more everyday
01-05-2009, 12:05 PM #2
How did it go? Ideally you'd want 400mm-600mm unless you're standing right up on him. Servo AF, fastest burst rate. I would just chimp the first few shots with the histogram to get the snow exposed and see how that matches to the skier. Maybe bump it up a bit if the skier is underexposed and try not to completely blow out the snow.
01-05-2009, 01:37 PM #3
- Member Since
- May 21, 2007
- 15" Macbook Pro, 2.16gz, 2gb RAM || 20" iMac, 2.4gz, 2gb RAM
Id also love to see a few, I took my DSLR Snowboarding with me, and got a few good shots, as long as I wasnt moving
01-05-2009, 04:45 PM #4
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- Sep 24, 2006
- Brooklyn, New York
- 15" MacBook Pro, i7 2.66Ghz, 8GB RAM, 512GB SSD; iPad 3, iPhone 5
I'd very rarely suggest kit on these types of questions, usually a bit of creativity will beat the need for kit, but photography on snow is hard enough at the best of times, but with a fast moving target from distance, you really have your work cut out. Depending on how far you are away, I'd say you'd want 300mm effective (35mm equiv), but more importantly a fast shutter... that usually means expensive and requires very fast AF on the longer lens, especially considering the narrow DoF.
You need to experiment; for exmaple if you're shooting upwards (i.e. the sky will be the background) and it's overcast, you'll probably be fine with multi; but if the snow is more than 1/3 of frame, I'd go for spot and under expose 1/3 (shoot in RAW and fix it later if required).
I agree with VI, servo AF is a given and if your continuous shoot is fast enough, you might want to do bracketing.
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